All posts by Sonas

Hilton Head October 2020

We provisioned Sonas for a ten day fall trip from Jacksonville to Hilton Head, South Carolina and back.

Because the tides weren’t right for us to leave our home dock early in the morning of Saturday Oct 10th we left the previous evening and tied up at the local free dock at Sister’s Creek.

Sister’s Creek Free Dock

The next day we headed north on the AICW. We looked to see if we could go outside but today the weather was calling for five footers so we decided to stay inside. We cruised through Fernandina (where the massive crane that will be cutting up the Golden Ray still sat). Knot Fast the Great Harbor that had visited with us in Queens Harbor the previous week was also tied up at the marina.

Knot Fast in Fernandina

Then past Kings Bay Submarine base where we saw a nuclear sub in the maintenance bay.

Ohio Class Sub at King’s Bay

We carried on up to St Simon’s and our overnight reservation at Morningstar Marina. On entering St Simon’s Sound we saw the Golden Ray car carrier laying on its side on the shallows right off the pier.

The Golden Ray

After tying up at the marina we took on 250 gallons of diesel, which would easily see us through this and the next couple of trips. We had booked a table at the Coastal Kitchen Restaurant and had a really nice socially distancing seafood meal.

The next day we left soon after first light, which these days is around 7:30am, and continued north. Our aim today was to stay at the marina in Sunbury GA. The wind was still blowing some so offshore was not an option. In the past we have been able to run directly from St Simon’s Sound to Calibogue Sound in Hilton Head, but with the heavy seas and shorter fall days we would have to break the trip into two, albeit shorter, days.

We had a nervous half hour as we hit the notorious Mud River right at low tide. This part of the AICW shoals badly and we were showing as low as 0.8 feet beneath us as we went through – slowly!

Not much water to play with!

We arrived in the rustic village of Sunbury mid-afternoon. That evening we dined at the Sunbury Crab Company restaurant. We had heard good things about the restaurant, but found it just OK. With the pandemic it was very quiet. We ordered a bottle of cabernet and were told that the bar man was using the last bottle for bar pours. But she had a bottle of Merlot. OK we said, and she turned up with a one and a half liter bottle.!We sent it back and stuck with beer. Clearly wine is not a big seller in these parts!

The next morning we headed out through St Catherine’s Sound into the Atlantic. The wind and seas had died down enough that we could run outside today. We had a very comfortable run into Hilton Head.

Sunbury sunrise

We had wanted to stay at the Shelter Cover Marina as we had stayed there before and found it handy for all of the restaurants and stores. However they had a waiting list for all of October. So instead we had booked into Windmill Harbor Marina.

Windmill Harbor is similar to our home set up. It is a marina in a neighborhood with a lock. When we arrived at the lock we found it narrower than our home lock. At 19 feet wide that gave us less than two feet of clearance on either side! As we got into the lock Paul went to use the bow thruster and found it wouldn’t respond. Rather than take Sonas down an unfamiliar fairway and reversing into an unfamiliar slip when we didn’t know what was going on mechanically, we asked if we could have a “lay-along” tie. The marina did not have one available but the harbormaster called over to the South Carolina Yacht Club asking if we could use theirs and they were fine with it. So that’s what we did!

Entrance to the lock at Windmill Harbor

We had planned on staying there for three days and had actually arranged reciprocal amenities with the yacht club from our club. We walked the neighborhood with Bella a few times a day and ate at the yacht club every evening The food was wonderful and we met some very nice people!

Sonas at South Carolina Yacht Club

Paul had tried to get a mechanic to come look at our bow thruster with no luck so we would have to leave that until we got back to Jacksonville.

On the day we had planned on leaving, Thursday the 15th Paul went to start the engines and found the batteries depleted. We had been plugged into shore power and charging so this was a surprise. Paul checked the start batteries and found them dead. They were only five years old. We arranged with the yacht club to spend another night and Paul found a company to come check the batteries and swap them out for new ones.

We finally left on Friday with new batteries. Though this was not quite the end of our mechanical issue!

Our aim today was a small remote village in Georgia called Kilkenny. It was the perfect distance for a short day’s run. We again were able to run outside and back in again at St Catherine’s, then a short trip back up the ICW.

Kilkenny marina was interesting. We watched as small shrimpers came in and offloaded. We also watched as they used a crane system to launch and lift small boats. The banks were so steep here that a ramp was out of the question. The marina charged a dollar a foot for a launch and retrieval! The marina did not have cleats but low wooden pieces that you wrapped your lines around.

Kilkenny cleats!

We had booked into the Market 107 Restaurant next door and had another seafood dinner, but we reckoned that the meal we had at Coastal Kitchen in St Simon’s was the best of the trip.

Next day we were off again. We had originally planned on staying at Morningstar Marina in St Simon’s again, then Cumberland Island the next night before home. But decided to go on to Jekyll Island Marina today and then go straight on home the next day, Sunday the 18th.

We passed by the Golden Ray again and entered Jekyll channel on low tide. We eased our way to the marina, often with less that two feet beneath the keel! We cooked a couple of steaks on the boat deck grill this evening!

Mother and baby manatee in Jekyll Harbor Marina

On Sunday the 18th we were again off at first light and followed a small sailboat out of the marina. We caught up to her as we made the turn into St Andrew’s Sound. The AICW in this area can be problematic as there are shoaling sandbars right across the middle of the sound. Boats transiting the AICW have to go out pretty much to the mouth of the sound. Today it was blowing on shore and nice big rollers were coming it. The little sailboat tucked in behind us to help it with the seas and then cut across earlier than us as it did not draw as much. We rounded the buoy getting hit somewhat by quite heavy seas but it because easier once we had them on our stern quarter.

Navigator Bella!

We again passed inside Cumberland Island, past Fernandina and we were tied up at home dock by 3:00pm. We did encounter an overcharging issue on our start batteries today. We suspect that one of our Balmar battery regulators has gone bad. We also suspect that is why we had the battery issue while we were in Hilton Head. Sonas is going to the yard for some new teak soon, so we will have them investigate the issue.

Click on the first photo below to scroll through them or start a slideshow.

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Cumberland and Fernandina Trip Oct 2020

For the third week in a row we had decent weather to do a mid-week mini cruise on Sonas. We left in cool conditions on Wednesday morning helming from the pilot house. Instead of using the small tender from our boat deck, which would have entailed using the davit to launch and retrieve it, we towed our larger 15′ RIB. This would make it easier to use and was much more stable for Paul getting off and on given that he is still limited by a back brace.

As we passed Fernandina we heard a Securite call over the VHF advising that a naval ship was on the way in through Cumberland Sound and to keep clear. The rule is no approach within 100 yards and go to steerage speed only within 500 yards. We had time to get across the Sound and into our anchorage before the Ohio Class submarine appeared and went towards the Kings Bay submarine base.

We were also passed by the mega yacht d’Natalin IV which we had seen just last week down in St Augustine.

We arrived at our anchorage off the Sea Camp dock in Cumberland. The day had turned warm so we headed off to the island for a walk across to the ocean-side beach. On landing Paul used the on-line National Parks payment system to pay our entry fee. It is $10 per person for seven days, under 16 years old is free.

Dogs are allowed on the island but not on the ferry so the only way they can get there is by private boat. Bella was the only dog on the Island! We had a gentle two mile walk through the sea forest and on the unspoilt beach before returning to Sonas.

Just before Sunset Paul launched the drone and took some video of the anchorage and the island.

The next day, Thursday, we again walked the beach in the morning before breakfast and some boat chores. After lunch we headed across and tied up at the Fernandina Harbor Marina. Some friends had come up in their boat and we were going to spend the evening with them.

We went to Joe’s Second Street Bistro and had an excellent meal in their courtyard before heading back to Sonas for conversation and wine!

We had left our plans open for Friday. We were either going to head home or down to one of our favorite anchorages on the Fort George River. Instead we decided to return to Cumberland Island. We again walked the island and beach, with Bella meeting wild horses and deer for the first time!

Saturday turned up very breezy, with 20 mph winds, but we returned to home dock without incident.

Click on a photo below to enlarge or to start a slideshow of the photos.

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September 2020 St Augustine Trip

We had planned on the short cruise up to Fort George River and anchoring out for a couple of nights. But, since I was still restricted after my back surgery, Sian had concerns over my ability to help out should there be any issues with the dinghy (especially the outboard) if she got into trouble. During the day would not be an issue as there usually were other boaters around, but the last trip ashore in the evening with Bella would be the issue.

So on Wednesday as we exited the channel from home dock we turned right on the AICW instead of left. Sian contacted St Augustine Marina and asked for reservations for two nights. We had an uneventful trip to St Augustine, tied up by 3:00. After a doggie walk and a nap, we went up to O.C. Whites for dinner. They have a nice sized courtyard for safe dining.

The next day, Thursday, a couple of mega yachts arrived, joining the two already there. This is the first time we have ever seen more than one of them at the marina when we have been there. We spent a relaxing day at the marina, walking the town, enjoying an ice cream, and general people and boat watching!

Sian completed a couple of boat jobs that Paul hadn’t been able to do. Replacing a bilge pad, replacing the fresh water filter, and a swapping out a 12v power receptacle on the foredeck.

We walked over to Harry’s Grill which also had a sizable courtyard and had dinner there.

We delayed our departure from the marina on Friday until late morning as we needed mid-tide or better to enter the channel into our home dock. Because we were running ahead of a light wind in 87 degree weather the trip back was hot but uneventful!

We may not have been able to enjoy a three month trip on Sonas this year but we are trying to squeeze in as many days as we can now!

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September 2020 Fernandina Cruise

After four months tied up due to both COVID 19 and Paul’s back surgery we finally got to take Sonas up to Fernandina for a couple of nights. Frank and Julie Proctor on Escape joined us. We had dinner on board the first night and then a birthday dinner (Paul’s) at Joe’s 2nd Street Bistro on the second night. The weather called for rain but we didn’t really get any – though there were plenty of clouds around as you can see from the photos!

This was Bella’s first over night cruise and she handled it like a champ, in fact she loved it. Seems we have ourselves a new boat dog!

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2020 Projects

Social Distancing – Fortunate To Have Sonas At Home

Well COVID-19 certainly put paid to our annual spring three months cruise to the Bahamas. Initially, like everyone else, we didn’t know how long we would be tied to the dock, and we were optimistic that the delay would only last a month or two. As time dragged on I began to complete one boat project, then another, and another, and I even thought we might get to the job that was on the very bottom of the project list – giving the engine room and bilges a good cleaning and repainting parts of the engine that needed touching up!

Dirty engine


We were anchored off Cumberland Island for three nights back in March and Sian noticed a new sound when raising the anchor. When we got home I had a look at the Maxwell HWC 3500 and saw that two of the bolts that held the shaft to the port side gear box had either come loose or sheared off. They were grinding against the manual retrieval plate.

Maxwell 3500 Windlass

My mechanic dismantled the windlass and found everything well greased and easily came off the port side of the windlass, until he got to the clutch cone. It was seized solid to the shaft. No amount of cajoling, prizing, wedging would get it to budge. He decided to remove the starboard side of the windlass and see if he could remove the shaft to work on the port side, and found the starboard side clutch cone stuck as well.

Clutch cone

Next he used a heat gun to heat up the bronze cone to try and pop it from the shaft. After quite a while that did the trick. When he removed the manual retrieval plate he found that the four bolts holding the shaft to the motor housing had failed. One had sheared off completely, the three others were loose with two of them bent. We simply cannot remember an incident that would have caused that damage.

So the mechanic got the windlass off the deck and took it completely apart to full investigate what was going on. He found the gear housing plate cracked and the bolt holes worn, allowing the windlass to become loose. So we ordered all of the needed parts and rebuilt the windlass. It was obviously a catastrophic failure but we still don’t know what caused it.

Worn bolt holes and cracked housing
Rebuilt gear housing

Teak swim platform and steps

Over the past couple of seasons the caulking on the swim platform teak had been coming off. I asked the yard if anything could be done and they told us that the teak was so worn that it was now too thin to re-caulk. We had been finding that it was also uncomfortable to walk on in certain areas. The yard had given us a couple of names of people to do the work but they were busy and couldn’t get to our project. I was finally directed to a company called Teakdecking Systems out of Sarasota.

Teakdecking were very responsive, although they also said that they had a lot of work on the books they would schedule us as soon as they could. They gave me a quote based on a measurement sheet I sent them and then in early May they advised that they had a team going up to Savannah who would stop by Jacksonville on their way to take the measurements.

Ron stopped by on his way to an installation on a large Viking in Savannah to make the template. He took it back to Sarasota where they made a digital pattern and are currently fabricating the teak. They said they could send an installation team but recommended I use Huckins here in Jacksonville as they do tear out and installs and that would save me the travel and lodging. Huckins is waiting for the final shipping date before scheduling Sonas.

Swim platform template

I couldn’t persuade Ron into the engine Room either!

Floating dock

I treated myself to a new floating dock for our AB 15 DLX RIB. Even though the water at our home is mostly fresh we still get white worm on unpainted bottoms. We were continuously lifting the RIB and storing it in the garage, which was not very convenient.

The blocks arrived and Sian and I put it together ourselves. We had a couple of missteps, mainly from not making sure we were on a flat surface, but once we moved the build to the flat concrete dock it went smoothly. Once together and in the water roped to the inside of our dock, we ran the RIB up onto it – and only got half way! Talking to Dock Blocks they suggested adding more water to the entrance blocks to lower them. We did that and still couldn’t get the RIB more than half way on. I then noticed that the chines were getting caught in the channel of the floating dock and that was stopping the RIB from coming on. It needed to be lifted higher on entry.

Dock Blocks had a solution – circular bunks that install into each side of the channel. They sent me links to other installs and to the process. I decided that I didn’t want to retro-fit these so asked if they could install next time they were in the area.

I can’t say enough about Mark Partridge from Dock Blocks. He was passing through Jacksonville returning from visiting family. His wife and child amused themselves in Jacksonville while Mark came and installed the bunks – charging only for the parts.

He stayed and watched me successfully load the boat after the install!

Dock bunks

Marquipt Davit

Next up was tidying up the davit. We had been seeing flecks of rust on the deck underneath the winch area for some time and saw that the outside of the motor had a coat of rust. We had also bought a new cable and hook set from Marquipt over a year ago and it was time to install that as the current cable had kinks.

 I took the cover off and gave the winch a good sanding and a couple of coats of Rust-oleum rust converter. Then I gave the cable a yank from the top of the drum, it wouldn’t budge. Tried with pliers; wouldn’t move. I know on previous davits that a small piece is jammed into the drum groove to hold the cable in place so I turned the drum to punch a screwdriver from the bottom to dislodge the holding piece. Still nothing. So to get the cable out of the way I cut it and punched again. Still no movement. I sprayed with PB Blaster and tried again, and again. Finally I did what every red blooded man eventually does – I called the manufacturer for the Columbia 1000 winch!

Rusty winch

They kindly sent me the schematic for the cable replacement, clearly showing a tear drop piece inserted into the bottom of the drum (not in from the top) holding the loop of cable!  Once I saw this I quickly punched a screwdriver from the top of the slot and out popped the tear drop – and the cable replacement was a cinch – after a couple of days of trying!

Schematic showing tear drop

I was trying to persuade Sian into the ER while I was handling this, with no success!

New shades

First up was selecting and having new shades installed. Sonas still had her original wooded venetian blinds. Some of the cords had snapped, and some of the head mechanisms had become worn and stiff. After we broke off a part of a slat on one of the blinds it was time to replace them.

Old blinds

We first selected roller blinds and the manufacturer came and measured. Unfortunately when the installer came to check things before they were manufactured we discovered that the roller heads would not fit behind the bug screen frame on the rear salon doors. After discussion we decided to go with honeycomb blinds due to the smaller footprint. Again she measured, again we paid and again the installer came to check and said that the honeycomb would not fit either.

The choice was to change out everything but the door windows or leave as it. Somewhat frustrated we told them that we would hold off for now and stick with what we had.

Then I was on Yachtworld one day looking at another Grand Alaskan trying to answer a question for someone when I saw a boat for sale that had Roman Shades. They looked great and because of the way they work there was no large head mechanism. We called the company back and after measuring, paying, and a final installer visit we found that they worked. So Sonas is now sporting new window treatments!

New shades


The next project, while it was still somewhat cool for Florida, was putting new poly on the cap rails. We had neglected to add a couple of coats last year and the relentless Bahamian and Florida sun had taken spots back to the teak. I decided to separate the rails into three jobs. One around the rear side-walks and the cockpit. The second around the Portuguese Bridge, and the third the fore deck.  I spot scraped and sanded all of the spots back to the teak, filled with three coats of poly and finally went over all of the cap rails with an additional three coats.

Spotty teak

I did some research on how I could get the brightwork to look uniform but the overall consensus was that unless you take everything back to the bare teak, the new varnish spots will show as the older teak has been discolored by the sun and elements over time. Eventually the spots will start to merge.  Note to self – a light sanding and a couple of new coats every fall or spring will keep the bigger job at bay!

Thought for a second or two about cleaning the engine room next, but luckily managed to find other projects!

Power pedestal

We have our own dock behind our home. The power pedestal, probably original from 1998, was looking the worse for wear. So I carefully power washed it, and gave it three coast of bright white with a light sanding in between. I was quite pleased with the result!

Cleaned pedestal
Painted pedestal

Re-arming PFDs

It was time to replace the arming on our two West Marine Coastal and two Mustang Survival PFDs. We decided to have a bit of fun with this and jump into our pool wearing them. This proved that they were still good AND allow us the experience of having them go off while wearing them.

They worked fine and are now rearmed!

Two types of PFDs

They worked!!

So here we are in September and I still haven’t cleaned the engine room! I have found other ways to avoid it, including re-sanding the pavers around the house, re-painting the garden gnomes, and digitizing hundreds, if not more, old photographs and letters!



May 1 RIB Cruise

A mixed day today on our planned trip up to Bird Island off Nassau Sound. First there was a scheduling issue at the lock and we couldn’t get out at our planned time. So ended up staying at home for lunch. We finally got out early afternoon, but too late for our planned destination. So we went up to Fort George River for an hour or so instead. Plus again, the forecasted wind of 15-16 turned into a strong blow. However any day on the water beats any day in the office!


We left Quito and arrived at the airport on Baltra Island. The airport bus takes you to the ferry dock when you boat across to Santa Cruz Island. In the afternoon we went to see the Galapagos Giant Tortoises and watched as the local liquor was made (and sampled it) . Next day we took a boat to Santa Fe Island and visited with the seals and took a walk through the island. On the second day we visited North Seymour Island and the Boobies, Frigates and iguanas. We had a chance to snorkel the clear waters on both days.

Click on the first photo below and it will give you the choice to play a slide show of the photos or you can use the arrow on the far right to click through them one at at time.

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We arrived in Quito from Lima and visited the Equator Museum and the church of the Virgen De Quito. Since Ecuador is the world’s largest producer of roses we went to a rose farm, and a humming bird sanctuary. We had lunch in the Cafe Plaza Grande and took the cable car ride up to the Pichincha volcano.

Click on the first photo below and it will give you the choice to play a slide show of the photos or you can use the arrow on the far right to click through them one at at time.

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Lima, Cuzco And The Sacred Valley

We started off in Lima, and then flew to Cuzco, eleven thousand feet above sea level. We entered the Sacred Valley and visited Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero, Macchu Picchu, back to Cuzco before leaving Peru for Ecuador.

Click on the first photo below and it will give you the choice to play a slide show of the photos or you can use the arrow on the far right to click through them one at at time.

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Self Isolation Picnic Cruise

We had planned to take Sonas up to Cumberland Island again, this time for two weeks. We had even bought all of the provisions. Then on Friday April 3, the island was closed to all, including private boaters, which was disappointing. So today we packed a picnic lunch and took our RIB up to Fort George river. If there were too many boats there we were going to leave and go find somewhere quiet. When we arrived we found the place virtually empty and we grabbed our own beach! We had a nice couple of hours before returning home. We cleaned up and then at sunset we took the RIB around the lagoon to wave and say hello to any neighbors who were hanging out behind their homes.

Machu Picchu

We left our base in the Scared Valley and rode the train along the Urubama River to the town of Mariposario de Machupicchu. From there we took a shuttle bus up the switch-back road to the Belmond Hotel right outside the gates of Machu Picchu. We did an afternoon walk through the ruins and then we were back in there again before sunrise the next morning to watch the sun hit the buildings.

Click on the first photo below and it will give you the choice to play a slide show of the photos or you can use the arrow on the far right to click through them one at at time.

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The Amazon

Landed in Iquitos and took the boat to our camp at Ciera Tops. Visited the village of Indiana (named by a missionary), visited the Yaqui tribe, and walked the second longest canopy walk in the world. Sian was also “blessed” by a Shaman.

Video pieces

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March Trip To Cumberland Island

We returned from our trip to South America and decided during the second week of our self-isolation from COVID-19 to take Sonas up to Cumberland Island for a few days. The island is closed to ferry and other charter traffic but still open to those arriving by private boat. The rangers are still working though all contact centers are closed. We had planned on staying two nights but the weather was so good and the island so empty we made our provisions last another night!

We went on the beach on the Atlantic side and we were the only people on the 17.5 mile long beach! We also visited the ruins on the mansion built by the Carnegies.

The forecast was fine so we returned home running outside. The only issue from the trip was that our gear change cable on the tender broke – so we will look to get that fixed this week so we can get up to Cumberland again very soon!

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Some Video snippets before the photos below!

Click on the first photo below and it will give you the choice to play a slide show of the photos or you can use the arrow on the far right to click through them one at at time.

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McGuyver ing

[This should have been posted early last summer but we forgot Sian had written it (or maybe Paul didn’t want to be reminded in writing!) The good news is that we are now able to add resolutions to the original issues!]

From Sian, on board Sonas.

There is a new to me verb on Sonas this year. McGuyvering.

The Oxford dictionary describes it thus “To McGuyer is to make a repair in an inventive way, making use of whatever items are at hand.”

There are those who would say that is simply boating! Others, like Paul, will define cruising as fixing broken things in exotic locations because there is always something breaking on a boat, you just don’t know what it is yet! For me, this has been a season where things, some big, some small, go haywire and I am not used to that!

Some of the McGuyvering that goes on is down right amusing.

For example a cockpit sun shield. In four years we have never felt the need for a rear sun shade but this year we definitely did. The prevalent wind in the Bahamas during spring is from the East. So the bow of the boat faces into the wind and the stern of the boat faces West – where the setting hot sun is in the evening! So rather than be forced indoors Paul rigged up a shade using the large old front window cover that we had stowed on board (but should have taken off the boat – Hooray for procrastination!), add clothes pegs and bungee cords, and it worked a treat. [Our canvas shop has now made us shades for the cockpit].

By the way what boat could possibly exist without numerous bungee cords and duct tape?

More seriously, the switch on the dinghy went bad so the work around wasn’t in the truest sense a McGuyer but we used the switch on the motor cowling to lift and lower the engine. Not such a big deal, really more of an inconvenience especially when running up on a beach. [Dingy went into the shop for a full work up and new fish finder/depth sounder. All good now].

Marine sanitation devices (MSDs), otherwise known as the heads or toilets, always give many opportunities to McGuyver. I shall spare you dear reader a rehash of previous posts or any nasty photos, but suffice it to say I have been promoted to bucket holder and feeder of paper rolls when an extra pair of hands is needed. A promotion I did not seek but as a dear friend said, it’s hard to hide when there’s only two of you on a boat! [Touch wood, all working fine since then!]

Our batteries are not recharging as they should, latest theory is the alternators need attention so we have to check battery levels and start the generator throughout the day, and even while we are cruising on longer (8+ hours) runs as the start batteries dropped close to the red. Again no huge deal but if the oven goes off while I’m making bread, heads will roll! [Alternators removed at yard and fully refurbished. Starboard one was not putting anything out at all due to bad wiring. Yard electrician went through the boat checking electrics , all good].

Earlier in our travels our hot water tank failed which meant an unscheduled lay over in Lucaya getting a new tank delivered from Florida and installed. Mission accomplished and off we went.

The sulphur goop that gathers at the bottom of marine water heater tanks!

However the new, smaller tank seems to put out a higher pressure and impacts the dish washer. Now some purists would be scathing about a dish washer on a boat but I didn’t put it there and if you don’t use it you loose it so yes we run the dishwasher. However with the force of water from the new tank the first time we did so the hose came off spewing water all over the salon. Used every towel we own, mopped it all up and tightened the hose and thought it was fixed. It was not. After the second water incident we “McGuyvered” the water flow into the dish washer by partially opening the valve and then turn it off after every use. Means you have to remember to turn it off otherwise get up at 1.30am when you think about it and rummage under the sink trying not to wake the whole boat. [The hose was attached with a simple hose clamp which couldn’t handle the pressure. The yard has now fitted a high pressure connection].

New dishwasher fitting.

And then we come to the windlass trouble. We had a slow drip onto the starter relay on the outside of the port engine from a raw water pipe. Because it was a slow saltwater drip that evaporated with the engine heat and never got to then bilge mats (diapers) we did not realize we had a leak. We found a mechanic in Marsh Harbour who located a 24v replacement replay and replaced it.

Rusted out starter relay.

Then we had an interesting issue! For some strange reason the port engine cranked and started when we used the windlass to lift the anchor. After the mechanic came back a couple of times he could not solve the issue. We were reduced to wearing our communication headsets with Paul in the engine room turning off the start batteries, and me on the bow lifting the anchor while the boat drifted without power. Then telling Paul the anchor was fully up so he could turn on the batteries back on and starting the engine once the winch had finished and moving on without, hopefully, bumping into anything. Which , I must say, Captain McGuvyer managed very well. We have since refined this by bypassing some something [the start relay] and starting the engine manually with jumper cables, then lifting the anchor! Happy days! [By the time we arrived home this had stopped occurring. Our mechanic and the yard electrician could not recreate the issue. The yard did find the windlass loose and the battery switch for the windlass-shared start batteries badly cracked. So it could have been arcing at the switch].

So the point of this is, some of us are the natural McGuyvering type (Paul) who quite enjoy the thrill of finding solutions and puzzling through. And some of us (me) have no imagination for McGuyvering situations and frankly get a little tired of the “game”

Good job we’re a team!

Palm Coast Cruise – Jan 2020

Three boats from Queen’s Harbour took advantage of the unusual January weather to run to Palm Coast Marina for three days. It was sunny and highs in the mid eighties, just perfect to be on the water.

Paul and Sian on Sonas, Julie and Frank on Escape, and Martin and Marian on M&M. We ran down on Tuesday and were all tied up by mid afternoon. We even had the pleasant surprise of finding that the shoaling at Matanzas had been totally dredged away and now carries 11-13 feet at low tide.

Sonas cruised the last third of the trip with Never Say Never and Sea Tripper, two boats that were cruising further south together. They also tied up at Palm Coast Marina that afternoon.

We had pot luck dinner on board Sonas on Tuesday evening with copious amounts of wine, went to the European Village for a pizza lunch at MezzaLuna, and then back to the European Village on Wednesday night for an Indian meal at The Fifth Element.

We did have a little excitement on Wednesday morning when Never Say Never was leaving the marina and had a small electrical “meltdown” and had to be hauled to a T-Head while things were sorted out. A mechanic that the marina uses was called and turned up within the hour. After a new starter and new ground wires they did a test cruise and the boat was declared ready to resume. We have to say , based on the smoke and smell of burning, we thought it was going to be a good week’s work! Kudos to the marina and mechanic for getting them underway again quickly!

All boats returned safely and without incident to Queen’s Harbour on Wednesday afternoon.

Some photos of the cruise:

Nights of Lights 2019

We left Friday morning and used the AICW to St Augustine. Coming back on Sunday we went out through St Augustine inlet and back in at Mayport. Friday and Saturday’s weather was great (sunny and low seventies), Sunday was chilly in the low sixties, so we came back running from the pilot house.

Click on the first photo and then scroll through using the arrow on the right of the page or start an auto play by using the arrow at the bottom of the screen. I would also suggest that you also click on the little “i” button at the bottom as well as this will display the photo descriptions.

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Turning on the lights!

Frustrating Engine Issue – And Back To Jacksonville

Guided Missile Destroyer leaving Naval Station Mayport

May 11. [See engine issue in last post here] Basil the mechanic promised he would be with us before nine, and he did show up on time. He added a diode to the part that he had installed yesterday and we tested the windlass to see if it was still starting the engine – and it was not! So we felt that the issue was finally resolved. Paul took Basil back to shore and came back ready to lift anchor and motor over to Fisher Bay on Guyana Cay for the night so we could make the Nipper’s pig roast tomorrow.

Sian lifted the anchor and the port engine started again – the same issue we thought was resolved. We quickly shut everything down and called the mechanic. We waited and waited until finally he called but told us he had nothing further he could try. We believe that we tested the fix by using the windlass to lower the anchor, which does not put as much of a draw on the batteries as lifting it. When we lifted it the increased battery draw fed to the port engine start relay.

So we decided that it was time to skip the rest of the Abacos and head back to Jacksonville to get the problem rectified – all this over a $60 part!

Paul turned off the engine start batteries so Sian could lift the anchor without causing an issue then once the anchor was up he quickly turned the engine start batteries back on and started the engines to leave the anchorage. The weather was good to cross the sometime treacherous Whale Cay Channel so we set our waypoints for the anchorage at Angel Fish Cay/Crab Cay. Along the way we let Paul and Michelle on Nagari know that we would not be joining them for the Sunday pig roast at Nippers.

Crab Cay anchorage

We made the anchorage late afternoon and had a very pleasant and calm night.

May 12. We had planned to use the same process to lift the anchor and start the engines as the day before, only to discover that neither using the windlass to raise the anchor or using the key to start the port engine worked – it seems the brand new installed start relay had totally gone!

So we now started the starboard engine as normal on the key, Paul used a jumper cable on the start motor to start the port engine and we could just go ahead and use the windlass to raise the anchor without any issues. Totally losing the relay actually helped the process! (We know, confusing for those who don’t have to worry about marine engines!).

We cruised in great weather to Mangrove Cay, our jumping off point for crossing the Gulf Stream back to Florida the next day. There was another trawler in the anchorage when we got there and the couple from Allie Dee came over for a chat. We agreed a departure time before sunrise the next morning and to buddy across the stream together.

Mangrove Cay anchorage

May 13. We had a SW wind during the night and were anchored off the NE of Mangrove Cay so had a comfortable night. We were off the anchorage before light at 5:30 and soon started to feel the wave action from considerable wind. Allie Dee followed us out and also expressed surprise at the seas. However it was comfortable enough and we crossed White Sands Ridge at left the Bahamas, crossing into the gulf stream, at which point we lowered the Bahamian courtesy flag. As the day wore on the seas sat down and it continued to be a very comfortable crossing.

Running on instruments in the dark
Our last Bahamian sunrise

We were about 12 miles out of Fort Pierce when NOAA broke into our VHF radio warning of a severe storm running from Port St Lucie to Sebastian. That was exactly on our path into Fort Pierce. We contacted our buddy boat and we focused our radars on the storm. We thought we could outrun it so both sped up, but when we were a couple of miles out from the start of the inlet all hell broke loose. We lost all visibility, and we had winds up to 40 knots, with cloud to sea lightning. We decided to bail on trying to enter the inlet and we did big circles in big seas and winds making sure to keep out of each other’s way as we couldn’t see each other on the storm cluttered radar.

Allie Dee under gathering storm clouds

We finally saw the weather clearing to the north of the inlet and both headed that way, and an hour after aborting our first approach we got in through the inlet. Allie Dee anchored right inside the inlet, but we decided to go on for an other hour or so to our reservation at the Vero Beach City Marina. We had already called them and made them aware of the delay due to the storm. They wold be closed by the time we got there, but gave us permission to tie up at their fuel dock, which was easier to do that a slip without a dock hand available. Once tied up we walked across to the Riverside Cafe right by the marina for dinner.

View by Riverside Cafe Restaurant
Flight of Ibis
Flight of pelicans

May 14. We added some fuel at Vero and then headed north. We had fine weather and smooth waters. We had originally planned to stop at the NASA Causeway Bridge anchorage but got there early so went on and anchored off Titusville, saving us an hour on the next day’s cruise. On the way we encountered a black snow fall of love bugs. They swarmed the boat and blanketed the fly bridge and us! After anchoring we spent an hour with the hose getting rid of the mess. Then we set a table and had our last meal on board for this trip!

Swarm of love bugs
Last meal on board

May 15. We were off at first light and through Haulover Canal, past the huge NASA rocket buildings, into Mosquito Lagoon, New Smyrna, Port Royal, Daytona, and our evening dock at Palm Coast Marina. After cleaning up we went over to the European Village (as is now our return ritual) and had a nice Italian dinner at La Piazza Cafe.

Haulover Canal
Haulover Canal manatee
NASA building
Ponce De Leon Lighthouse
Woodpecker on Palm Coast Marina roof
Strangely named boat at Palm Coast Marina

May 16. Due to the tides at the channel into our home dock (we can only transit in at mid tide or better) we had a lazy morning at Palm Coast and set off at 10am. We transited the Matanzas area and into St Augustine. We then went outside from St Augustine to Mayport as we wanted to get outside of the three mile zone for a final flush of our holding tanks. As we transited up the coast we saw the smoke from a large fire. We checked the local news but didn’t see anything, we decided it was a controlled burn at the Guyana State Park. just south of Ponte Vedra.

Smoke over south Ponte Vedra

As we approached Mayport inlet we received a lot of military naval radio traffic. A number of US and Canadian vessels were coming out. So we managed our approach to keep out of their way.

Escorted guided missile destroyer
Carnival Ecstasy leaving Jacksonville

We entered the St John’s at Mayport, got to the ICW south and our channel for Queen’s Harbour. We were tied up at Home dock by 5:00pm.

At home dock

Another spring Bahamas cruise completed. A week or so after we arrived Nagari paid us a visit before continuing on north.

Sister ships!

North Eleuthera And Back To Our Old Stomping Grounds Of Abaco!

Cracking conch

May 1. We were safely tied up at the Cape Eleuthera Resort and Marina as the wind blew and the rain fell all day. The storm had popped up out of nowhere and we had folks in the US contacting us to make sure that we were OK, as the weather had been on their news. We chatted to people on the docks, including a young couple who were in a catamaran called Sea Monster (which we later found out was the name of their on board dog!). It was their first boat and they had taken a few months off work to cruise the islands, learning as they went! Later we went back up the the marina restaurant for a beverage, Paul looking forward to the Sky Juice in a coconut he was promised – but sadly, still no coconut!

May 2. We were still tied up in Cape Eleuthera. We again walked the four mile loop which we measured via phone GPS and found was really 4.4 miles! The wind was still howling but the forecast was for calming the next day. So, knowing that we would be leaving and would be at anchorage for the next week or so, we had another nice dinner up at the Harbour Pointe restaurant.

May 3. We finally left Cape Eleuthera and headed into the anchorage at New Bight just to the north. We wanted to get some fresh fruit and veggies from the supermarket there so dinghy’d ashore, tying up at the dock at The Frigate restaurant for lunch before groceries. A elderly Bahamian gentleman greeted us and introduced himself as Smooth Groove, who played the guitar for tips. We met two other couples, one staying at a place further up the coast called Ten Bay. After getting our groceries we decided that New Bight wasn’t the nicest of anchorage as it did not have a beach. So we upped anchor and headed up the coast to the pretty fishing village of Tarpum.


We went ashore and walked the colorful village. We found a little church called St Columba’s. St Columba founded a monastery in Derry, N.Ireland, where Paul comes from, before setting out to bring religion to the Scots and further afield.

We saw a man cracking conch on the beach, with a pile of about 60 shells to work on. Further along we watched at the fish table as the local fishermen prepared their very extensive catch for sale.

St Columba’s
Preparing today’s catch

May 4. We set off after breakfast for our lunch stop at Ten Bay. We had read that this remote village had a great beach. After a slow two hour cruise up the coast we turned into the picturesque town, with its long sandy beach. As soon as we had the anchor down and shut down the engines, Sian had the paddle board ready off our stern! She paddled into the beach as Paul followed along in the dinghy. We then walked the long beach, and met the couple that we had talked to at The Frigate restaurant in New Bight yesterday, their vacation cottage was right on the beach!

Paddling Ten Bay

After lunch we headed further up the coast as we wanted to visit Governors Harbour, the first capital of the Bahamas. Reading the charts and cruising guides we learned that the harbour itself is not a great anchorage because of the grass on the seabed. So we stopped just short of the harbour and pulled into Long Point behind Pigeon Cay. We found a calm spot right up against the rocky south shore.

Our anchorage at Governor’s Harbour
Not what you want to see in your overnight anchorage!

We now had to go outside and around a headland to get into the harbour, so we put on our PFDs and ran the dinghy around. We found a half dozen boats in the anchorage and spoke to a couple about the holding, which they said was “OK.” We anchored the dinghy off the beach and walked through the small town. We had a couple of Sands beers and a conch salad at the Buccaneer Club, chatting to a pilot who had flown in a group for a location wedding.

Conch salad and beer….all gone!
Governor’s Harbour Police Station.

May 5. We were out of the anchorage early and on our heading to Current Cut. This very narrow cut joins the Eleuthera bight to the bay south of Royal and Russell Islands, and the current really rips through there. It is best to be there at slack tide, and if not make sure to have the current with you. We got there with the current pushing us along and we pulled the throttles well back but still went through there at eleven and a half knots (our normal cruising speed at cruising RPM is between eight and nine knots).

Current Cut
Current Cut

We then headed across the shallow bay towards Spanish Wells. This village got its name from the time Spanish galleons plied back and forth between the New World and Spain. They had dug fresh water wells on the island to put fresh water on board the ships before crossing the Atlantic. We entered the narrow channel and tied up at Yacht Haven Marina. After a quick swim in the marina pool we went for a walk along the waterfront to the west of town. As we walked along we noticed how very well maintained the large fishing fleet was, comparing them to the sometimes rusty vessels we see around Mayport and Fernandina back home.

Entrance to Spanish Wells
Spanish Wells fishing fleet
Spanish Wells fishing fleet

Later that evening we walked along the waterfront to the East and had dinner at the Shipyard restaurant. At first we sat on the deck but as soon as the food arrived so did dozens of flies! So we scurried back inside to finish our seafood dinner! Back at the marina bar we had a night cap, with Paul deciding on a frozen margarita to celebrate Cinco de Mayo!.

Walking through Spanish Wells
The superyacht Anne-Marie in Spanish Wells.

May 6. We were leaving Spanish wells this morning via the east, which entailed going through the fishing fleet and then following waypoints that took us through a very narrow gap in the shallow reefs to the north. In fact the cruising notes said to only try this in good weather conditions with good visibility, and we had both this morning. Getting through the reef we pointed our bow towards Abaco – 45 miles and six hours away. We entered through North Bar cut and headed around Tilloo Bank, anchoring in Tilloo Pond right by our sister ship Nagari, and were invited over for dinner.

Passage through the reef.
Three ships on our AIS, one crossing close!

Later in the afternoon we went to start the generator to launch our dinghy and found that the generator was not pumping cooling water and the exhaust was dry. We quickly turned it off before it could overheat and Paul checked raw water strainer and found some weeds. He cleaned that out and checked that there was good flow from the through hull. Next to look at is the the impeller in the raw water pump. That takes some time and our concern was if we found that was not the problem we would have lost daylight and would be sitting all night without any way to charge our batteries. So before looking at the impeller we decided to head to the nearest marina, where we could plug into shore power, and get everything right with the generator.

So we started the engines, the starboard started fine and the port would not start at all! We had just run fine from Spanish Wells and the engine ran fine until we shut it down on anchoring, so this was really confusing. So we went over to Boat Harbour Marina on one engine, where they were helpful in getting us onto a T-Head using the one engine and bow thruster. Paul immediately put a new impeller on the generator and that ran fine.

Chewed up impeller

He next reached over and took photos of the outside of the port engine, which is hard to get at. Looking at the photos he found that the wiring for the engine starter solenoid/relay was all salt corroded and it seemed to be from a leaking exchanger drain right above it. So we are hopeful that correcting the leak and then getting all of the corrosion off the starter relay wiring tomorrow morning will resolve the issue without needing to call the yard.

May 7. immediately after breakfast Paul got into the engine room and started cleaning up the mess that was the solenoid. He made sure the leaking hose was well secured by adding a second clamp. He then started brushing the solenoid connectors to get rid of the rust and corrosion. Unfortunately the solenoid was too far gone and the connector posts were ruined.

Ruined starter relay

So Paul called Marsh Harbour Boat Yard. Their mechanic was backed up but they gave Paul the name of someone else who could do the job. Paul called him and he asked for photos. Paul sent off the photos – and then we heard nothing from him, even after some text follow up. After lunch we called the local parts store who said they had some 24V solenoids and we could come see if one would work. We walked the mile and a half into town and found that the solenoids they had were all 12v. Sigh. We tried a couple of other places with no luck. More sighing.

Pul then called our Mechanic back home in the US. He had previously told us that he would be able to ship us anything we might need to where ever we were cruising.. He said he would get on it and to call him back first thing in the morning to arrange shipping. After that conversation the local mechanic called back and told us that he had these in his inventory. He was going to come by first thing in the morning to have a look and let us know (hooray).

We went over to the Abaco Beach Resort restaurant for a couple of black fin grouper dinners – just to help us relax!

May 8. The local mechanic came by, looked at the problem and told us he did have the part we needed in stock. We told him we would motor around to Marsh Harbour on the one engine rather than stay at the marina and would let him know when we are there. Once in the harbour we called him and he said he had a restaurant generator problem he was working on and would come to us once he was finished. And so we waited. Sigh

The famous Hope Town lighthouse

Of course hie generator problem lasted all day and he called to say he would not be able to make us today, but by 11 am tomorrow! Sigh and hooray!

During the day we watched some folks on a sailboat struggling to raise their anchor. After a while it became clear that they had an issue. Paul jumped into the dinghy to see if he could help. When he got there he found that they were an elderly cruising trio. Their anchor had been fouled. At first Paul couldn’t see what it was fouled on, so was careful in case it was a power cable. He got them to raise it enough that he saw it was an abandoned mooring chain. He got a rope from the boat with a shackle on the end for weight, and dropped it through the back of the anchor and grabbed it on the other side with their boat hook. Now he could lift it backwards off the chain. As it came towards the surface Paul was able to grab the back of the anchor and after three or four tugs the chain fell off the anchor. and off they went!

Dropping the line through the anchbor.
Lifting the anchor from behind
And they’re off!

We went ashore and grabbed some fresh produce at the very well stocked Maxwell supermarket, which is pretty similar to a supermarket in the states. They even had diet tonic water, which we had not been able to find anywhere else in the Bahamas!


May 9. Basil Wilmore, the mechanic came along this morning and installed the new starter relay. He also found the source of the leak that corroded the old relay, it was a hairline crack on a heat exchanger drain pipe. So he also took that off and took it back to his shop and put epoxy on it. That will be fine until Sonas goes into the yard this fall when I will have them replace that drain pipe in both engines.

After seeing Basil back to shore Paul went into town for a couple of things. On his way back a young man on the dinghy dock asked him if we had any spare fishing line. When Paul told him that we could probably find him some, he then asked if we had any hooks and lures we could give him! Paul came back to the boat and went down to where we store the fishing gear. We have two heavy offshore Penn rods and reels on board but also two light combos that we had probably bought at Wal-Mart. Paul grabbed one of the light rod and reel combos and a small tackle box that we had with a decent number of hooks and suitable small plastic lures, and took them ashore and presented them to the boy, whose eyes lit up.

Happy new fisherman!

As Paul left the dinghy dock some larger boys came over and looked like they were going to take the rod. So Paul turned around and read them the riot act. Back on Sonas he watched through the binoculars and saw one of the bigger kids casting with the rod. So back into the dinghy he went and after getting the rod back to the kid he reamed the others out – to the extent that another boater at the dingy dock looked a bit shocked, until Paul explained what was happening. In a short while the boy trotted off home with his prize.

While all this was happening Paul and Michelle on Nagari, our sister ship, had anchored beside us and invited us over for dinner. We met Michelle’s sister Deb and had a lovely grilled steak dinner and some beverages on board.

May 10. Now that the part had been replaced on the engine we were finally ready to move on. We were going to nip around the corner to snorkel on Mermaid Reef before heading to Hope Town for the night.

Sian we up on the foredeck to retrieve the snubber using the windlass, while Paul nipped down below to use the toilet. Hmmmm, Paul heard an engine running! He opened the engine room door and sure enough the port engine, the one we had just been working on, was running without us starting it. Paul told Sian to stop with the windlass and went up and turned the engine off at the helm.

He then went into the engine room and asked Sian to run the windlass again and sure enough the relay got power from the windlass operation and started the engine! We got everything shut down and left a message for the mechanic to call us back. Meanwhile Paul called our mechanic in the US and chatted to Paul on Nagari, bouncing ideas around as to what might be happening.

Basil the mechanic finally called us back saying that he would finish up the job he was currently doing at a nearby marina and come right over. However he again called late in the day to say he wouldn’t be making it and we were first on his list tomorrow at 8:30am. Frustrating to say the least!

We will cover what happened in the next blog entry, we are currently on our way back to Florida early, but safely!

Cat, Little San Salvador, and Eleuthera!

Little San Salvador water spout

April 25. We left GeorgeTown this morning, saying good bye to the Cruisers Net and headed towards Cat Island. We had planned to leave by the north Elizabeth Harbour entrance but there were a few rain squalls up that way, we so went out the south entrance and managed to head to Cat behind the squalls. Crossing the Exuma Sound we were in a couple of thousand feet of water so Paul decided to get the fishing gear out and try his luck. After about 30 minutes he got a bull mahi on the line, and fifteen minutes or so fighting it he got it to the back of the boat. It ran across our stern and as Paul tried to get it to the cockpit gate it threw the hook! Ah well, we needed to either defrost something for dinner or find somewhere to eat once we put the anchor down!

We got to the anchorage off the beach at New Bight, on Cat Island. We saw what looked like a small blue painted bar/restaurant on the beach, looked at Trip Advisor and saw that it was a place called Hidden Treasure. So we waited until just before dinner time and launched the dinghy to go ashore. We first walked up to check on the place and confirm they were serving dinner, then went for a walk along the beach. We first went south and found the beach strewn with pieces of glass, turning around we headed the other way and found the beach in much better condition. We ordered a couple of grouper dinners and then joined another couple at the only table! They were on a sailing catamaran, and we shared cruising stories over dinner. Just before dinner was brought out a young lady grabbed a big handful of the pine needles from the beach and lit them by our table, billowing smoke over us, which was a bit surprising. She then told us that it would keep the flies off our food as we ate!

April 26. The next day we went ashore to visitThe Hermitage, which we found extremely interesting. You can read about Father Jerome and The Hermitage by clicking here. The Hermitage sits on top of the highest point in the Bahamas, at a dizzying 206 feet! As we got to the beach we found that the switch on the dinghy console that lifts and lowers the outboard had stopped working. There is another switch on the motor itself so we have a workaround for the rest of the trip.

Getting back to Sonas we lifted the anchor to head around the corner to a small bay called Fernandez, where there was a nice beach. When we got there we found it was rolling with the swell, so we carried on to Alligator Point and turned into the anchorage off the beach at Bennetts Creek. There was only one other boat there, so we had the beach all to ourselves and watched another great sunset!

Bennetts Beach
Bennetts Sunset

April 27. We decided to stay at Bennetts today. The one other boat left so we had the place to ourselves. We walked the beach and swam, did some small chores on Sonas. In the evening the wind died away and we had a very quiet night.

April 28. After breakfast we ran slowly north west towards Little San Salvador. The forecast was for thunderstorms passing through all day, but we arrived off the island without meeting any bad weather. In fact Sian was able to do some yoga on the boat deck. On the way we called Cape Eleuthera Resort and Marina and booked a slip beginning Monday for four nights. There was some bad weather coming through and now seemed a good time to tie up to a dock for a few days As we approached the Little San Salvador anchorage we saw a large barge, crane, tug and other boats working. So we slowed down to minimise our wake. They didn’t have a diver-down flag displayed so we felt we could pass by relatively close. They then came on the radio and told us they did have divers down and were about to raise something large from the sea bed and could we give them wide berth – which we did. We went around them and into the anchorage.

Little San Salvador is owned by the Carnival Corp. and they use it as a private island for their cruise brands, including Norwegian Cruise Lines, Carnival, and Princess. We had previously been there on a Norwegian Cruise ship, where Sian took yoga on the Half Moon Cay beach. We swam to shore but our walk was curtailed by some thunder in the distance, so we turned around knowing it would take some time to swim back. There were storms around the island but not over it for most of the day. We watched the salvage crew working and listened to them on channel 6. We were extremely surprised at what they lifted from the water. When they were completed and ready to leave we radioed them and congratulated them on a job well done! There were only three boats in the anchorage that evening and we experienced strong thunderstorms as a weather event started to form We also saw at least one water spout. We didn’t know it then but this was to be the start of the first tropical disturbance of the season!

April 29. Around three in the morning an absolutely amazing electrical storm came through the anchorage. We went up to make sure we were not dragging anchor with the winds to see the whole bay lit up time after time with the lightning. It was a pretty restless night.

It finally calmed down and we got a few hours sleep, to awake to the sight of a Carnival cruise liner coming onto the anchorage. When this happens the ships tenders start to work, and we knew that they would throw wakes about the anchorage. So we had a quick breakfast and headed out for our next stop at the Cape Eleuthera Resort And Marina where we planned to ride out the coming storm.

Carnival Sensation
Cruisers going ashore
Running before the storm

We got into the well protected marina, which is still being developed. So far they have the marina, swimming pool, cottages and villas. After getting everything squared away we went up to the Harbour Ponte restaurant for drinks and dinner.

April 30. At 5:45a.m.mph and Paul woke thinking “did I just feel a bump?” He lay for a while and there it was again. He got out of bed and saw that the wind was howling and the rear of Sonas was up against the dock. After much pulling on lines and tightening the bow using the bow thruster we were able to get her where we wanted her. During the day the wind got even stronger, blowing over 40mph. We kept a close eye on our lines, but Sonas stayed tight in her slip. The weather stations were now saying that a tropical event had appeared over the Bahamas and, while they did not expect it to turn into a numbered storm, it would be a windy and rainy event!

We felt confident enough that we could leave Sonas and go for some exercise. There was a marked four mile trail, so we set off on that. The “trail” took us on miles of some very overgrown asphalt roads that we heard conflicting stories on – that these were the roads of an abandoned US military airbase, or the roads of a more recent abandoned housing development.

Resort sunset

Just after lunch a Nordhavn 47 entered the marina basin and made the turn for the slip next to us. After a couple of failed approaches due to the extremely high winds, Paul, who was on the dock with some others to lend a hand with lines, advised the marina staff that these boats only have one engine and, given the wind, couldn’t they find him a bulkhead to go against rather than trying to thread it into a slip with major cross winds. They eventually did just that and got him secured against an end dock. We later walked across and chatted to the couple on board. They had sold their home and were now off on their Nordhavn on the adventure of a lifetime. They planned to be at the Panama Canal by December, and then cruise the south Pacific – for starters!

Paul tried the resort speial!

Paul spent the afternoon walking the docks and chatting to many of the other boat owners, including Tim on a 40 foot cat and Ray on a 75 foot Fleming. We went up to the Harbour Pointe bar for a couple of pre-dinner cocktails, met a young man from London and another from down the road from us (Ponte Vedra) in Jacksonville. He worked at the Lexus dealership and in fact we discovered we had some friends in common! Paul asked bar lady Kenell for one of their cocktails – a Sky Juice. This required a coconut, which they didn’t have. Paul suggested they wait a while, given the wind, and one would land outside! Kenell told him to come back tomorrow and she would make sure that the coconut was in place!

Back To George Town For Easter and The Regattas

Sunset over Elizabeth Harbour

April 16. We had a wonderful day at Galliot Cay. The beach is about 1.5 miles long. We walked it and then paddle boarded. We basically had a lazy day off a wonderful beach. We got in touch with the Cape Santa Maria (named after Columbus’s boat) resort as we were planning on staying tomorrow night and would go in for dinner. They told us no reservations required, just come on in.

April 17. We had a horrible night at anchorage. There was zero wind but there was a swell coming in, rolling Sonas around (they call this a surge on the charts). We wanted to stay another night, have dinner at the resort, but not in those conditions. So we walked the beach, lifted the dinghy and set off for Elizabeth Harbour and George Town. We followed a few other boats who had also left Galliot Cay and overtook them before we turned into Elizabeth Harbour, We anchored off Sand Dollar beach, not needing to go across to the anchorage off the town until tomorrow for provisioning. We got everything secured then went in to Chat n’ Chill for a couple of beers. We were disappointed as the staff were very surly. They were more focused on their cell phones than the customers, were rude in their responses, and service was extremely poor. Sian left a very negative TripAdvisor review.

After leaving Chat n’ Chill we dinghy’d into the two hurricane holes and had a look around. Most of the boats looked like they had been sitting there for a long time, and many were unoccupied. We also saw some property for sale – with a very appropriately placed for sale sign!

Water front property for sale!

April 18. After breakfast this morning we moved across to George Town. We had seen the provisioning boat come is and tie up at the Government Dock. We rode the heavy wind and waves into the town dock and first went to a little souvenir store to buy birthday cards for Paul’s brother Paschal and Sian’s aunt Cath. After posting Paschal’s card at the post office Paul headed off to the bank to get some cash from the ATM while Sian started the grocery shopping. We then grabbed some items from the liquor store, got everything into the dinghy and pulled away from the dock.

CLUNK, and the outboard quit! What was that? Paul lifted the engine and we saw that our stern painter (rope) was wrapped around the prop! Luckily another couple were coming in on their dinghy and got us back to the dock. They were from New Zealand and on a round the world trip on their sail boat. We got the rope untangled, hand a long chat with the Kiwis, and then had a horrid ride back to Sonas getting totally soaked in the process – the wind and waves were building quite nicely.

April 19. The wind built to around 24 -26 knots today, meaning a mess of waves in the anchorage. So we stayed put on Sonas for the day, mostly reading! We did have one incident first thing during the Cruiser’s Net. The boat anchored next to us, name redacted, broke into the Net and said that his dinghy had broken free, could he have help getting it back! A guy with a 26 foot center console said he was on his way. We watched them search the harbour, finally disappearing into the far northern edge before returning with the dinghy. This suggests that it had broken free during the night and not just when he noticed it missing!

Canadian boat with an ice hockey stick as a flag pole!

By the way, we “double bag” our dinghy every night. We cleat it by the main bow painter and then have a length of half inch rope which we also tie down loosely. If one goes then the other should hold until we realize we have an issue! We do this even though there are light winds when we go to bed, as things can get wild during the night! [Now read on, to see how we were humbled!]

April 20. Finally the wind died down, and we had a nice calm anchorage. We ran to the new resort development at February Point for lunch at the Rusty Anchor. Given its name, it surprisingly turned out to be a rather posh restaurant, especially given we were in swimmers. However lunch was enjoyable and Troy our waiter was very attentive. Later that afternoon we took the dinghy across to Sand Dollar beach and walked a few laps of the beach. The wind had died away to nothing and we had to leave the generator and air conditioning on tonight so that we could sleep comfortably.

Paul towing some kids whose motor had stopped

April 21. Today is Easter! All this week we had been calling St Theresa’s Catholic Church to confirm the time for Easter Services, with no joy in getting through. We see from different sources that it is either 10:00 or 10:30. So this morning Paul asked on the Cruisers Net if anyone knew, the answer back was that they also had same conflicting information. So we decided to get there in time for the 10:00 start and, if we were early, say an extra few prayers!

We were there an hour early! So we sat quietly and thought our own thoughts. As the time for mass came near the little church became noisy with a surprising number of boys and girls in their Easter finery. The chapel held maybe 150 people max, and it was standing room only. Father Reggie was one of those happy boisterous priests, with a great singing voice. We had an organist accompanied by a man on a bongo drum! At the time of sharing a sign of the peace with each other there was pandamonium. People moved all over the little chapel hugging everyone and father Reggie walked among us and tightly hugged every single member of the congregation! We left there with the message of Easter ringing in our ears – he died for us, he rose from the dead, so now how do we walk in his footsteps!

The small St Theresa’a Church

We went back to Sonas in our dinghy, dressed in church clothes! Got changed, had lunch and then moved Sonas across to Sand Dollar Beach. Unless there is a need to be off George Town itself, like grocery shopping or church, we prefer to be across the harbour where Sand Dollar Beach is a quieter anchorage and somewhat away from the madness of the larger anchorages. It is also a lovely beach to walk and paddle board from. However it is still close enough for us to dinghy across to where they will have the regatta races on Wednesday!

Sian got on the paddle board, of which she was becoming quite proficient , and headed off for the beach. Paul took the safer route, using the dinghy! We walked the beach, Paul had a go on the Paddle board AND DID NOT FACE PLANT this time!

Back on board we prepared our traditional Easter dinner. A leg of lamb with aspharagus, roasted potatoes, home made mint sauce and gravy made from the lamb juice! We ate at the well set table in the pilot house looking out towards Sand Dollar beach. A delicious meal and a fine way to end Easter day.

We grabbed an after dinner drink and sat out on “our patio,” the boat’s cockpit. Around 9pm we saw a host of red, green and white lights descending on our stern, with searchlights flashing everywhere! It looked like aliens were landing. We saw that there was a catamaran in the middle of the pack and thought “why would anyone want to come into tricky Elizabeth Harbour in the dark?” After a period it all calmed down and went dark, what the heck was that all about!

Rescue fleet coming in

April 22. We work up today with the catamaran anchored behind us. Listening to the 8am Cruisers Net we got the answer to the puzzle. The French flagged catamaran Liladhoc has tried to enter the harbour by a route they had on their Navionics software, and not using well publicised waypoints. They hit a reef and were holed. A MayDay went out and the local salvage company, along with a good number of center consoles from the cruising community, went and got the vessel secured. They brought her into the anchorage safely. Those on board did not speak very good English so a call went out for translators and someone found them a hotel room for the night.

Old Navionics chart of the area
New Navionics chart of the area

Later this morning, seeing them on board, we motored over and offered the young couple the use of our washer and dryer, assuming that everything on board had received a good soaking. At first they seemed surprised that a boat had these facilities, but then thanked us and told us that they were going to go into George Town and use the laundry there.

We got after some boat chores and then dingy’d into the Sand Dollar beach for an hour’s walking. While ashore we met the owners of Nordhavn 68 Kava and their dog Penny. Australians Mike and Katie bought the boat in San Diego, came through the Panama Canal and were now working their way north to the US east Coast.

April 23. While listening to the Cruiser’s Net this morning the yacht “Bear” came on and said that they had snagged a runaway dinghy! Sian took a quick peek outside to make sure it wasn’t ours knowing of course it wasn’t because we double tie our boat – and the dinghy was gone! We got back on the radio and confirmed that it was our little duckling that had wandered in the night! We arranged to have it returned and when the crew of Bear brought it over we rewarded them with a nice chilled bottle of Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc! Well, so much for thinking we had her well secured – we still have no idea how she came loose, as it wasn’t even a blowy night!

The rescuers reported that she was bumping against some coral when they found her, so Paul took her to the beach and checked her out, engine and hull, and everything was fine. What with getting the line caught around the prop a couple of days ago and now this, we were having some issues with our little boat – all operator error of course!

We went over to George Town and found the dinghy dock totally full. We managed to squeeze little us in and went to the grocery store for a couple of things. We got back to Sonas and after putting our purchases away we took ourselves off to Sand Dollar Beach for a long walk. Tomorrow is the start of the Family Island Regattas. We are going to watch the first day’s races, get some photos, and then on Thursday head off to Cat Island, another new-to-us destination!

Full George Town dinghy dock

April 24. The Exuma Family Island Regattas, the oldest regattas in the Bahamas, start today. There are three classes. C Class, the smallest boats with the smallest number of crew, B Class, the middle size, with slightly more crew, and A Class, the largest boats with around ten crew on board! Our plan was to wait for the Class A race, film the start and follow them in our dinghy for some photos.

Since the A Class was not scheduled to start until 3:30 we took ourselves over to Sand Dollar beach and waked both trails across to the “ocean side.” One trail took us to a long beach, with waves crashing onto the shore. Retracing our steps the second trail took us to an overlook, where we again saw waves crashing against the rocks below, but also a good view of the boats, including Sonas, anchored off the beach.

Sand Dollar Beach ray
Walking the ocean side of Stocking Island
Our dermatologist would have a fit!

We decided to treat ourselves to a dinner ashore tonight, but wanted to avoid the madness of George Town during the regattas. So we called The St Francis Resort and booked a lobster meal for Sian and a snapper meal for Paul.

We got ourselves in great position to film the start of the A Class. We got a great view of the start gun and the crew pulling in the anchor and raising the sails. Then followed the race . See below for video and photos!

After tidying ourselves up we went over to The St Francis for dinner – and found ourselves the only ones there apart from some of the boat crews! It seems everyone else wanted to go to the regatta madness over in George Town! We nevertheless had a nice dinner, and got back to Sonas in enough light to lift the dinghy onto the boat deck, ready to bid George Town farewell first thing in the morning.

At The St Francis Resort

Crossing Into The Tropics And Long Island

Dean’s Blue Hole

April 9 – April 15

Early today we checked the wind and wave forecast as we would be running for two and a half hours outside in the Exuma Sound to Georgetown. Everything looked decent so we upped anchor early and headed out past Lee Stocking Island, where there is a defunct marine research institute, and back out through Adderley Cut. Once we had Sonas on her waypoint to Georgetown we found pleasant conditions all the way into Elizabeth Harbour. As we passed Emerald Bay we looked to see if there was anything left of the disasterous Fryer Festival from two years ago, but everything had been cleaned up and there was no indication that anything had ever happened there – or more accurately, not happened there!

Marker At Adderley Cut

We entered Elizabeth Harbour by the pretty complicated north entrance, which necessitates navigating five waypoints past reefs and rocks. Once in the harbour we anchored right off Georgetown to make getting to the store easier. We were only planning on stopping for the night to provision before continuing south. We launched the dinghy and went to the Exuma Market and then the liquor store for some more Captain Morgan for Paul! We will be returning to Georgetown later for the Family Regattas.

George Town AIS signals

When we got back to the boat the crew of Maerin contacted Paul via the Trawler Forum (where Paul and Steve had often chatted) saying they had dinghy’d past Sonas while we were ashore. We then realized we had passed by them and their two dogs outside Exuma Market and sadly had not realized we “knew” each other.

Paul had been noticing that our engine start batteries were being drawn down while underway, which should not happen as the engine alternators should keep them charged. He suspected a piece of equipment called the Automatic Charge Relay. After researching how it works and starting a conversation on one of his boating forums, he was able to identify the issue and get it rectified.


We were also having trouble with our fridge freezer. Even though it is equipped with locks it still works its way open in heavy seas. So Paul came up with a hack that we can use when we know there is potential heavy weather.

April 10. We upped anchor before breakfast today as we were running the four and a half hours to Long Island. Still part of the Bahamas but not part of the Exuma chain. We tried calling Maerin on the VHF to chat with no success.

We headed out of the south channel of Elizabeth Harbour and set our heading for Long island. A coupe of hours later, watching our location closely, we crossed the Tropic Of Cancer – we were now officially in the Tropics! I told Sian that all of a sudden I fancied a Margarita! I was denied since it was only mid morning, I got a cup of green tea instead! And a chocolate digestive biscuit! It was a celebration after all!

Crossing the Tropic of Cancer
Passing a blue hole on our way to Long Island
Blue Hole

The weather forecast for the area was for scattered thunder storms, accompanied by high gusting winds. We had a very calm cruise for the four and a half hours to the turn into Thompson Harbour. Just as we turned in large black clouds gathered and as we laid the anchor out we had strong winds followed by heavy rain. This continued for most of the afternoon, but then laid down in the evening. We did not bother launching the dinghy or try to go ashore. We had chosen to anchor in the north part of Thompson Harbour as there was some protection from a headland. The three boats that later followed us in chose to do the same. As we sat at anchor we looked across to the beach and saw a building well lit up indicating that it could be a bar/restaurant – and worth investigating for tomorrow!

Sonas anchored in Thompon Harbour

April 11. We had a restless night on board as the wind and rain swung around 180 degrees during the night creating a bit of anchor and snubber noise. Then later it swung the 180 degrees back again! It was still raining in the morning so after breakfast Sian went up and washed the dinghy, allowing the rain to rinse it. She then got busy making bread, and Paul got after a couple of small chores he had been putting off – like adding velcro to the bottom of all of our wall hangings to stop them moving around as we cruise. The forecast is for the rain to move off after lunch and the wind to move to a favorable direction for going ashore.

Sian uses the breadmaker to make the dough
And then bakes it in the oven

After lunch the weather did improve as forecasted and we launched the dinghy. We ran to the dinghy dock at Salt Pond. Tying up we walked up to the top of the hill and found the location of the car hire as we planned to hire a car to see the island. We then went into the market which we found really well stocked. We will revisit tomorrow to get some provisions. While in the market we asked them if they knew of someone who would give us a tour of the island in his car, we wondered if it would be better to use a guide rather than go around the island in our own car. They made a call for us and we met with David. He said he would put a tour together for us for tomorrow and call us with the price. He later did call and give us an itinerary with a reasonable price using his car. However we decided that we would rather do it one our own, so we thanked David and called the hire place and reserved a car for two days over the weekend.

We then went to the Sou’ End Bar and Grill for a quick beer. Getting back into the dinghy and leaving the dock we decided to go and have a look at the place we saw from the boat last night that looked like a bar/restaurant. We pulled in through a small jetty and Sian jumped off and went up. And yes, it was Tiny’s Hurricane Hole – restaurant and bar!

Tiny’s Hurricane Hole

After cleaning up on board we took the dinghy across to Tiny’s Hurricane Hole bar and grill and had drinks and grouper dinners. We talked to a couple from Ottawa who were staying at one of the cottages there and met the owners, Michelle and Jason, who were very receptive and friendly. They had just found out that their location had made the top ten in a list of best beach bars on the Out Island Blog along with Nippers in the Abacos and Chat and Chill in Georgetown! Quite the achievement!

Dinner at Tiny’s

April 12. Today we decided to so some small chores on Sonas in the morning and then walk the beach on the NE side of Thompson Harbour. After lunch we went into Salt pond and picked up a few things from the grocery store. Paul then got in touch with the local Catholic Church and found out where Palm Sunday services were this weekend.

We had heard on the local Cruisers Net (transmission over the VHF every morning) that there was a Happy Hour at the Sou’ Side Bar and Grill starting at four, so around 4:30 we dinghy’d in and went up to see what was going on. There were folks there from three other boats anchored in the harbour along with some long term boaters staying on their boats off Long Island. Added to that were some locals – so all in all a very interesting conversation over a few beers! We did get some tips of where to go on the island with our rented car.

April 13. Every Saturday from 8 until 12 there is a well know farmers market in Salt Pond. The Cruisers Guide raved about it and we had heard about it from a couple of people. We were also warned to get there early as the produce sells out quickly. So promptly at 8 we were in the dinghy and off to the market. We returned to Sonas 30 minutes later disappointed in the market and having bought nothing!

Salt Pond Farmers Market

We picked up our rental car by noon and were glad to find that the little Toyota had air conditioning that worked really well! We decided we would go visit the south end of the island first. We had heard about some supposedly spectacular caves on the island, so we called the guy who owns the land they are on and made arrangements for a tour at 3:00 this afternoon.

Looking at the small tourist guide put out by the Long Island Chamber of Commerce Sian identified a potential for lunch – Max’s Conch Bar and Grill on Deadman’s Cay. We hadn’t had a conch salad so far on this trip, so time to rectify that! We found Max’s easily enough as it was well represented by flags on the roadside! We enjoyed a beer, conch salad and red snapper in a real Bahamian out island location!

Max’s Conch Bar and Grill
Conch salad!
Conch shell wall

After lunch we swung by the meeting place for the cave tour just to make sure we knew where we were going, and then drove to the south end of the island and the Long Island capital, Clarence Town. We saw from the tourist guide that there was a neat Catholic church atop a hill overlooking the town with an altar and windows that should be seen. We got there to find the church locked up. We drove over to the Clarence Town marina and found a brand new facility with pool, ships store and restaurants. There were some boats anchored in the bay and a few in the marina, well protected from the angry Atlantic broiling outside.

St Peter and St Paul Church

Leaving Clarence Town we headed over to find Dean’s Blue Hole. This blue hole is the second larges in the world at over 660 feet deep. We found it at the end of a private two mile long sand road. We didn’t have time to snorkel it but planned to go back after our cave tour.

It was time to go meet our guide Leonard and visit the caves. We got to the meeting point, met our guide and owner and his young grandson Austin. We followed them to the entrance to the caves, not knowing what to expect – and were astonished at what we were shown. These were huge caverns, full of stalagmites and stalactites. Five species of bats use the caverns, with three in residence right now. There have been excavations of the caves, used by the Lucayan Indians hundreds of years ago, and artifacts found of pottery, bones etc. We will let the photos show how awesome this place is. If this was on an island visited by cruise ships, or otherwise popular with tourists, this would be a gold mine for the owner. Though when I suggested this Leonard didn’t seem over enthused o the idea!

Saying our goodbyes to Leonard and Austin, we headed back to Dean’s Blue Hole. We put on our snorkeling gear and swam out. We have to tell you that it is a really eerie feeling, to swim from less than two feet of sandy water to a slope rapidly falling to a rough edge of limestone, and then to darkness. You can’t help but think, while floating there looking down, what is down there looking up!

Snorkeling Dean’s Blue Hole

Heading north back to Salt Pond, we parked the hire car by the dinghy dock and, after a quick beer at Sou’ Side we headed back to Sonas. It had been quite a full day!

April 14, Palm Sunday. Today arrived with a bit of wind and quite a chop in the anchorage. We were clearly going to get wet going to shore in the dinghy. So we put on shorts and tees and packed all of our church clothes in a black trash bag. We got to the dinghy dock to find the female crews of three powerboats standing chatting. Paul warned them to avert their eyes and there was going to be some change of clothing happening – involving trouser dropping! We got into our church clothes and headed off to Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church in Hamiltons.

We got there in plenty of time, and as we gathered at the front for the palm procession who did we see – Leonard and Austin (from the caverns) , who were Eucharistic Minister and altar boy. Leonard’s other grandson was a second altar boy! The service in the pretty little church was enjoyable and we bade our farewells and headed to see the north side of the island.

Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church

We had decided to stay in our church clothes until we got to Stella Maris. We saw that there was a resort there with two restaurants. We would have a posh’ish lunch and then change into our casual clothes to explore the rest of the island. When we got to the resort we decided to go to the beach bar and grill instead of the main restaurant – so nipped into a restroom and changed into shorts and tees before having lunch overlooking the wild and raging Atlantic!

View from Stella Maris Resort beach bar
View from Stella Maris Resort beach bar

Leaving Stella Maris we headed to the very north of the Island and drove along a very rough sandy and rocky road, if it could be called a road, to the Columbus Monument. As we went out to the monument we saw that they were building what looked like a new road to it. When we arrived at the monument we also saw that they were redeveloping the monument site itself. We later read that there was a large expenditure assigned to improving the area as a tourist attraction.

We got to the monument, walking the last half mile as we were concerned that the “road” would soon rip the bottom off the engine! The monument signifies the landing point of Columbus’s longboat n the new world. There is also a plaque embedded in the sea floor off the coastline indicating where he laid anchor. The headland is named Cape Santa Maria.

A constant reminder that they drive on the left here!

Leaving the monument and slowly, very slowly, driving back to the main aphsalt road, we pulled out a list of recommended beaches that we had been given by Michelle at Tiny’s Hurricane Hole. There was a beach that she recommended at Galliot Cay, so we swung off the road and went to have a look at it. The beach looked spectacular, and there were a number of boats anchored in the bay. We decided, after leaving the hire car back tomorrow, we would head up here to anchor and enjoy the white sand and clear blue waters.

“Stop” sign on way to Galliot Cay

April 15. We had planned to use the car again this morning to hit one of the East side beaches and snorkel some near shore reefs. However the morning brought clouds and rain, so we took the car down to the gas station and filled it up along with a gas can for our dinghy. We left the rental back, upped anchor and headed off to the beach we had seen our drive yesterday.

We motored for two and a half hours to Galliot Cay and anchored in the clear blue waters about 150 feet off the beach. We swam to shore, walked the one and a half mile long beach, and swam back to Sonas. Sian got on the paddle board again. Life was good!

Tonight the wind completely died away. The water was so clear and still that we were able to see the anchor chain loop back under Sonas and see the anchor sitting off our swim platform! Paul took the opportunity to grab some drone footage, including seeing a number of small star fish on the bottom.

Galliot Cay, Long Island
Checking the anchor

And tonight, for the first time on this trip, we had to leave the generator running for the cabin air conditioner since there was no breeze for the Breeze Boosters and it was very warm.

Exuma – The Middle Cays

A wake of blue!

April 2 – April 7

April 2. The shallow water by the beach at Cambridge Cay was perfect for more paddle board practice. Plus we wanted to visit the coral garden at the entrance to the cut. So we decided early that we would stay a second night. As we had breakfast another mega yacht came in a and picked up a mooring, making three in the small anchorage. Later a fourth came in but there was no more “big boy” moorings available so they had to turn and go back out.

The winds were very light so Paul took advantage and sent the drone up for a quick video shoot. Then we put our snorkel gear in the dinghy along with the hand held VHF radio. We were running out into deep water and to the edge of the cut from Exuma sound. There were enough boats in the anchorage that if we needed help we would get a response via the VHF.

We ran through the cay and turned towards the inlet and Honeymoon Beach. We anchored the dinghy in the corner of the beach and snorkeled out to what we saw named on the charts as a “coral garden.: We were not disappointed. The coral reef was stunning and ran for quite a long way out. See the video below. As Paul was coming back to the boat he was shadowed by a barracuda. Paul wasn’t sure who was keeping a closer watch on who – and he kept his ring finger clamped to his side so as not to attract interest!

We had a very pleasant day at Cambridge, with more paddle board practice, and watching the charter guests play off the big yachts.

April 3. We headed out of Cambridge Cay, and left the Exuma Land and Sea Park for the last time this year. Our next stop was Sampson Cay, another stop we had never been to. Sampson is a private cay owned by the telecommunication billionaire, John Malone. It used to has a decent marina, restaurant and villas. But once it he bought it the marina was closed down. He has huge signs all over the area reminding everyone that the island is private. As with everywhere else in the Bahamas, all beaches below the waterline is public property and accessible, so we dinghy’d past the closed marine into the beautiful sandbars in the interior.

April 4. As we left Sampson this morning we noticed trash being burned on one of the beaches. We hoped that the owners were good stewards of the waters and that the remains were removed before the tide came in.

Burning Trash

While at Sampson Paul tried the back flip routine as a way to get out of the water and into the dinghy. The problem is, this works well with an inflatable dinghy that does not have a center console – and the console is pretty hard when hit by your shin!

OK, no more younger person stunts!

We cruised around the corner to Staniel. We know that the supply boat comes in on an Thursday (sometimes Friday) and wanted to be there to get fresh vegetables and fruit as well as milk. There is a great little anchorage right beside Staniel Cay Yacht Club that only has room for three boats, so we were aiming for there first in the hope that there was room. Plus we wanted to go into the Yacht Club for drinks and a dinner treat! If there wasn’t room we would go back to the large anchorage at Big Majors and take the long dinghy run into Staniel for the provisions.

Staniel Cay Yacht Club

We were in luck. there were only two boats in the little anchorage so we squeezed Sonas in! We went ashore and up to the joint laundry and liquor store, grabbed some beer, white rum, and Captain Morgan. Then around noon we saw the supply boat come in. It left around 2:00, so we gave the supermarket an hour to get the delivery up and went in. A number of others had the same idea and it was a bit of a zoo. Poor market people were trying to get the fresh stuff on the shelves but we were taking it off them as soon as it was out of the boxes!! All good though, and we got the fresh stuff we wanted! And, to say it is shipped from the states, via Nassau, it was excellent quality!

The restaurant at Staniel Cay Yacht Club has two seatings – 6:30p.m and 8:30p.m. You call to make reservations by 4:00 and tell them your food order! We called and confirmed a 6:30 reservation and ordered two lobster dinners! In we went at 5:30 to the bar for a couple of Sands beers, and promptly at 6:30 the dinner bell was rung and we went through for a delicious lobster dinner!

The bar at Staniel Cay Yacht Club
After the lobster dinner (and drawn butter on Paul’s shirt!)

We had recently bought a couple of Breeze Boosters. These are gadgets that you out out of your cabin window that deflects the breeze into your sleeping area. Since the evenings were starting to warm up, and we really wanted to hold off on using the generator and AC during the night for as long as possible, we deployed them for the first time. It took us a little while to get the adjustments right for our port holes, but we got there. And found that they worked very well indeed. In fact a couple of times we had to partially close the windows to keep the gale at bay!

Breeze Booster
Breeze Booster

April 5. Next day we decided to head over to Big Majors and see what was happening over there. As we approached we saw plenty of boats on the AIS system! We tucked ourselves well into the land and well away from the nonsense that is Pig Beach! We had previously visited the pigs a couple of years ago and felt no compunction to do so again. We took the paddle board over to the beach and added to our experience. Sian is becoming more and more proficient while Paul still has the occasional watery face plant! We have found that the blow up version of the SUP, being lighter, makes it harder to get back on when you fall off than a heavier fiberglass SUP would be. So we play in the shallow waters so as to be able to get back on without exhausting ourselves.

Big Majors AIS

April 6. The large busy anchorage at Big Majors, with the dozens of boats and constant tourist boats visiting the pigs, is not really what we enjoy. So we left early today amid strong rain squalls. We headed around Harvey Cay and set our course for Black Point. There is a busy fishing community on the north side of Black Point which we had visited before, but we were aiming for the beautiful quiet anchorage off the sandy beaches on the south side of the point, right by a house that was designed after a bucket-built-sandcastle.

Rain squalls approaching
Black Point sandcastle house

We anchored a hundred yards or so off the beach. Once we were set Sian did some strength building exercises on the fore deck, then we dinghy’d into the beach and walked up and down the 1/8 of a mile beach a number of times for some more exercise. Sian then swam back to Sonas. We had lunch and took the paddle board in for some more play time! We were later joined by two other boats, one a charter,and had a lovely quiet evening in this beautiful anchorage with just the three boats.

Fore deck work out

April 7. Back to the beach today for some more walking to get in our daily quota! During the morning an interesting vessel came in. Called Mirage, she had a thin monohull with a large outrigger. After anchoring she put out a half dozen kayaks and off they went. Paul Googled her and found out that the couple who owned her run kayak adventures in the Bahamas and Caribbean. Around lunchtime Nagari, our sister ship, with Paul and Michelle on board, came into the anchorage. We went over and said hello and grabbed a beer. When we asked them if they had paid a visit to Pig Beach while they were in Big Majors Michelle shared her horror story. She had been feeding the smaller pigs some carrots when a big sow chased her down, pushed her over and bit her on the butt. She showed us the bruising and it was quite substantial.

Michelle’s pig bite bruising

Later we met on the beach for a paddle board and chat while sitting in knee deep crystal clear Bahamian water. They came over and had dinner on board in the evening.

Mirage, Kayak Adventures

April 8. After breakfast we lifted the dinghy and paddle board as we would be going out into Exuma Sound for a portion of our trip this morning , and it was still quite windy. We left Black Point and Nagari and headed south again.


This morning there was a pre-sale of a concert we wanted to go to back in Jacksonville which was sure to sell out. So right on time at 10am we jumped on line and got our two tickets to see Celine Dion! Then we headed south past Farmers Cay and in behind David Copperfield’s Musha Cay to Rudder Cut. We went through Rudder Cut and out into Exuma Sound. The water at the cut was pretty severe but once through and heading towards Adderley Cut eight miles away, we faced four foot rollers which wasn’t too bad given the short distance. Sian then decided to go below to check on the fridge freezer, to make sure that it wasn’t swinging open with the seas. The fridge was fine but she found that we had forgotten to close the windows in the forward guest cabin, right on the bow. The heavy seas were bringing water in both sides. So she closed the windows, and threw down some towels. We are not quite sure how we missed this as we have quite a robust “prepare for sea” process every time we go “outside.” The decks are totally cleared, nothing loose. The living quarters are prepped, with anything that could fall down placed on the floor or sofa (like lamps), fridge/freezer clamped, and all windows closed. We would have to clear up the watery mess once anchored!

Again at Adderley Cut the water got up as the SE wind bumped up against an outgoing tide, but we got through with no issues.

David Copperfield’s beautiful Musha Cay

We were heading for another one of our favorite anchorages – Williams Cay. We had hoped to spend a couple of nights here, but a change in wind direction to the SW and West is forecasted for tomorrow meaning wind straight into the anchorage so we will be moving on after only one night.

After anchoring Sian stripped and laundered the forward bed’s linen, and cleared up any water on the floor and window areas soaked as a result of leaving the forward ports (windows) open during our Exumas Sound run. We were all squared away by mid afternoon, so swam to the beach and back, before grilling dinner on board.

Not all mega yachts are power boats!

Northern Exumas And The Park

Snorkeling Exuma

March 25 – April 1

March 25th. Day break brought a beautiful calm day. We upped anchor and drifted slowly south to Long Cay. We navigated the north entrance by VPR (visual piloting required). This is a term used on charts and guides to indicate that there are no published waypoints and you must use your eyes in good light to work your way past the coral head and shallows. We had not visited Long before and found a beautiful anchorage and beach. We walked the beach and took some drone footage when back on Sonas. We slept the night through without a murmur from the water.

It’s really handy being able to see how your anchor is set!

March 26th. We cruised slowly from Long Cay to Normans Cay, entering from the north navigating through numerous coral heads. Once safely anchored we radioed McDuff’s Bar and Grill to make sure that they were serving lunch and received no response. So we dinghy’d in and walked over to the restaurant, where they told us that the whole Island had been privately reserved and closed to the public for the week. So we had lunch on board and then dinghy’d over to the south east side of the island. We had a look at the new marina that is currently being built there, and motored past the sunken plane left over from the islands past as a drug lord’s haven.

Norman’s lifeguard platform!

March 27th. Today we were hopping one island south to Shroud Cay, another island we has not previously visited. Shround is the northernmost island in the Exuma Land and Sea Park, the world’s oldest national marine preserve. There is no fishing or taking conch in the park. Since the water was a flat calm we ran the dinghy up over the top of the cay and ran down the Exuma Sound side, passing numerous unspoilt beaches. Stopped at the beach below Camp Driftwood and climbed the hill. This is a spot that was created by Ernest Scholtes who permanently anchored his boat in the creek and built steps to the top of the hill. The tradition was that visiting boaters had to find some gift to take up there, shells, driftwood etc. Nowadays the park rangers warn not to take anything as it will be removed so as not to ruin the area. The view from the top of the hill was splendid. At the top we met another couple, Jim and Pam who were admiring the views and then going to dive the nearby offshore reef. We took the opportunity to have photos taken of each couple!

The view from Camp Driftwood

That night an unexpected wind kicked up from the North West, driving straight into the anchorage. This brought four foot swells, tossing the ten or so boats in the anchorage around. We watched other boaters drag their anchors and then reset. We stayed awake during the night, taking turns to nap in the salon, along, we suspect, with everyone else in the anchorage! Our ground tackle held well with no issues.

Sian: As the wind got up we saw the sailboats around us swinging erratically on their anchors and in the dark watched the anchor lights sway like metronomes, slightly out of time. Even watching a boat of a similar size to us corckscrew around with no rhyme or reason., knowing we must be doing the same. It was a very long night but we were happy to see all our anchor mates still present and accounted for come the light of day.

March 28th. The weather forecast was for winds clocking from NNW to NE and then E. We upped anchor early and went to Hawksbill Cay north anchorage. One of our favorite places in the Exumas and a good stop for the forecast winds. We saw a power catamaran already in the anchorage and we watched about ten people on board dinghy to the beach, noticing how very well dressed they were for playing on the sand! Then realized that we were watching a wedding! We later walked the beach and chatted to the newly weds and family. They were engaged on this beach last Thanksgiving and had now returned to be married here!

Beach wedding

March 29th. We awoke after a solid night’s sleep. Most likely because of zero sleep the night before. We did a couple of hours of boat chores by which time the wedding party had departed and we had the anchorage all to ourselves. We spent a relaxing day (aren’t they all!) walking the beach, then going back in with our beach chairs to watch the sun set over Sonas!

Sunset over Sonas
Hawksbill drinks holder!

March 30th. The day started off cloudy and rainy. We stood by the radio and called the Exuma Park 9am broadcast. They come on air at this time every day to ask which boats are leaving the mooring and which boats require a new mooring booking. We reserved a mooring for tomorrow in the northern mooring field. The day cleared up so we took the dinghy north and cruised the beaches on the Western side of the cay, seeing lots of green turtles. We went ashore and walked up to the ruins of a loyalist settlement from 1785, then we had a short walk into the interior of the cay.

18th Century Loyalist Ruins
Old walls

Later we snorkeled over the small coral reef at the north end of the anchorage, seeing lots of varieties of coral and fish. On our way back to the dinghy we disturbed a huge ray and followed him for a bit (all the while thinking of Steve Irwin!).

March 31st. Today we said a fond farewell to our favorite anchorage and motored for a couple of hours to the north anchorage at Warderick Wells to pick up mooring ball number 16. After a quick lunch we put on our snorkel gear and swam from Sonas the short distance to the reef behind us. We found a turtle eating the grass underneath the boat! After that we prepared the Stand Up Paddle board that we bought just before we left Jacksonville. It was time to learn how to SUP!

Turtle having lunch

We towed the SUP over to the beach on the Western side of Warderick so as to be able to get on the board more easily when we fell off! Paul went first – though not successfully. First on his knees, then finally he stood up, wobbled, and then a magnificent face plant! After a couple of more attempts he finally relaxed and got it – paddling the board, turning it, and not falling off!

First on his knees…
Then up, but wobbly…
Then an amazing face plant!
Teaching the SUP a lesson!
Now it is behaving!

Now it was Sian’s turn. She clambered on, started paddling and off she went. After five minutes making sure she could do it, she paddled the board all the way back to Sonas!

Of course, Sian nails it right away!

Sian had prepared a joint of lamb in the slow cooker, which was delicious served with roasted potatoes, carrots, brussel sprouts – AND HOME MADE MINT SAUCE!!

Lamb dinner

April 1. Before the day got too hot we walked the Causeway Trail through Warderick Wells, across to Boo Boo Hill and back to the Park HQ, a hour and a quarter’s exercise. We paid for last night’s mooring ball, and the three nights anchorage at Hawksbill. Getting back to Sonas we went for another snorkel at the nearby reef, before untying from the mooring ball and leaving this beautiful anchorage.

Boo Boo Hill
Using the underwater camera

We ran for an hour and a half to the south entrance to Cambridge Cay. This is a tricky entrance and quite shallow. Most boats prefer the longer north route. We got through with no issues. We were planning on anchoring but the anchorage was quite crowded so we decided to pick up another mooring ball. Paul then went on-line and paid Exuma Park for the ball.

Sian: There is definitely a knack to picking up a mooring ball and today was my most successful “grab” to date! With an audience on the catamaran next door I might add! Acknowledging Pauls expertise in maneuvering Sonas into perfect position I still think the cat people could have given a ripple of applause for a job done right!

We had seen on the charts and read in the cruising guide that there were a couple of great snorkeling spot at the south end of the cay. So we went off in the dinghy to explore those. They were off Honeymoon Beach which is quite open to a SE breeze, so there was pretty good wave action over the reef. We snorkeled for 30 minutes or so then gave it up for today. We will plan on going back tomorrow morning if it is calmer.

We felt pretty good in our exercising today – a long hilly walk, and a couple of snorkels!

There are plenty of big mega yachts where ever we go, with the toys for their charter guests. We passed one yacht yesterday that was over 300 feet long!

Mega, mega yacht!
Yacht toys!

Finally Leaving Lucaya And Getting To Exuma

Monday March 18th – Sunday March 24th.

Monday March 18th found us still in Lucaya with a busted water heater.

It rained heavily all day, just to compound our misery at not being able to move on to Exuma. Charlton Knowles from the boat yard, as promised, swung by Sonas on his way home on Monday evening. He took a quick look at the water heater and agreed that it was done for. He told us that there was no chance of getting a replacement on the island and he would have his contacts back in Florida look for one. After he left we donned our rain jackets and headed for the pool bar to drown our sorrows. We had started to become good friends with Kelli the barman!

We just hung around the marina on Tuesday waiting to see if a replacement heater could be found. Paul took a cold shower on the boat while Sian went up to the marina and used their shower. Charlton reported back that a direct replacement could not be found at short notice and would have to be ordered. Paul told him that, for now, we didn’t need an exact replacement for what we had, any manufacturer would do, and it didn’t need to be a 20 gallon model, just big enough to get us through our cruise.

Finally on Wednesday he informed us that he had a heater put aside in Florida. He would fly over (on his own plane) and have it in hand by end of day. So we made plans to leave the Grand Bahama Yacht Club marina and get to his boat yard down the coast as soon as he opened on Thursday morning.

We pulled into his yard around 8:30 the next morning. He had the water heater and two of his guys waiting on the dock. They came aboard, ripped out the old unit (emptying it of all of the sediment when they got it on the dock) and put in the new heater. We were away from the yard at 10:15. They were efficient and courteous and did a great job. A yard we would highly recommend if you need one in the area.

What is probably at the bottom of your water heater!

Since we got a late start on the day we could not make our planned first stop at Cabbage Cay half way down the Berrys, which gives an easy hop through New Providence and into Exuma. So we aimed for Great Harbour in the northern Berrys.

Half way down we saw a cruise ship approaching from the south east. Our AIS told us that we would be passing within a half mile if we continued our course. Amazing that across hundreds of miles of water we would bump into a cruise ship! So we adjusted a couple of degrees and passed by the stern of The Disney Dream by over a mile.

Disney cruise ship on AIS
Disney Dream

We then passed through some heavy rain squalls and arrived just as two more cruise ships had completed getting their passengers off their “private islands,” and were getting under way. The Great Harbour anchorage was well protected and we had a comfortable night.

Incoming rain!
Watching the rain and cruise ships on radar
NCL Cruise Ship off the northern Berrys

The next day, Friday 22nd, brought a weather forecast indicating that the run through the Northwest Passage and into New Providence would be rough. So we spent the morning at the anchorage doing some cleaning and engine room tidy up. Sian took the opportunity to keep up with her yoga, and do some laundry.

Yoga on the foredeck
In the laundry “room”
Great Harbour bird

After lunch we ran a couple of hours down the Berrys island chain to Cabbage Cay so as to get a jump on our trip to Exuma the next day. There were two other boats in the anchorage, and we watched as they took their dogs to shore. We have been thinking a lot about Grace this trip as she was with us the last time we were in the Exumas and has been gone exactly a year.

Cabbage Cay beach

We checked the forecast again on Saturday morning and we were good to go. It was calling for only two foot seas into New Providence and one foot seas from there to Exuma. Perfect!

We were awake and up before first light on Saturday, eager to get going. The night before Paul had taken a nice moon rise shot of the sailboat anchored behind us, and got another again this morning of the sunrise behind it.

Moon rise

We were out of the anchorage at 7:15 and headed south east. As forecast the seas were calm so we rode from the fly bridge. It always amazes us how quickly you leave the Bahamas Bank and get into really deep water.

From 77 feet to 10,000 feet in a few miles!

As we approached New Providence we saw a Carnival cruise ship leave Nassau heading back to Port Canaveral (based on their AIS) and right behind us came a Royal Caribbean cruise shop heading into Nassau.

The first time through here we called Nassau Harbour Control and asked for permission to transit the harbour. Then we wanted to pass through and see the cruise ships and take photos as we sailed past Atlantis. However it can take some time to get permission and then it is a slow zone all the way through the harbour. So now when we pass through New Providence we use a cut to the east which avoids the harbour altogether.

Atlantis, Paradise Island

We were through New Providence by noon and set course for Allen’s Cay at the northern end of the Exumas. We arrived at the Allen Cay waypoint around 3:30 to find a number of boats already in there. We tried a couple of spots but found them too close to the rocks given we had an easterly wind pushing us that way, so we opted to go back out and down to the more open and safer anchorage at Highbourn Cay.

Entering Allen’s Cay anchorage

We had our anchor down by 4:30, amid a number of other sail and power boats and a few mega yachts with their toys. The end of a longish day, but worth it – because we are here! And to celebrate Sian put the swim steps down and completed her inaugural swim around Sonas! Though when we threw some bread out the next day and a number of baby sharks chomped down, she was less than thrilled!

Sian: I had promised steak for our first night in Exumas and even went as far as suggesting the blog entry be titled “Tonight We Eat Steak in Exumas!” Well, you know about pride and what it comes before!

I defrosted steak after breakfast and was quite surprised when I went to marinade it to discover it was pork! Never mind, time was on my side so I pulled out another parcel of steak and left that to defrost. Only to discover that too was pork! And yes, I had written that on the package! Oh, and guess what we had just eaten for lunch? Yep, left over port!At this point it felt like we had a version of the Monty Python skit going on but instead of “spam,spam, and more spam” we were doing pork!

Highbourn anchorage
Relaxing with a cold drink
Sian’s first swim of the year
Baby sharks

During the evening the wind got up into the low twenties and stayed there through Sunday. So we remained at the Highbourn Cay anchorage tidying up the boat, checking the engine room, and planning our stops for the next month or so. We also took the opportunity to use our new watermaker to top up the tanks. We had some milk that would be going out of date and, for those that follow our blog, we treat milk like gold dust. So we froze the remaining milk in usable portions to use for bread making.

Making 20 gallons per hour
Frozen milk portions

Sian: AND I finally found the steak buried deep in the chest freezer!

Exumas, Bahamas – 2019 Version

Full chest freezer

Sunday March 10th.

We had originally targeted Monday to leave for this year’s trip but, since we were all ready to go, we decided to set off Sunday instead. The Queen’s Harbour lock opened at 8:am, and we aimed for a 9:00 am start. We radioed the lock shortly after 9 to find that there were gate sensor problems and we had to wait at our dock. The lock had just recently been upgraded with new electronics and I guess they needed some bedding down. We finally got through around 10:15.

Leaving home dock

Our plan was to stop briefly at Palm Cove Marina and get sufficient fuel to get us to our marina in Lake Worth. That way we wouldn’t be unnecessarily carrying full tankage on our trip south. We called the fuel dock to make sure that their fuel dock was up and operational and were told that it was. When we got there we were then told that only one of the diesel pumps was working and that was going very slow. A boat had just pulled in ahead of us and was taking on fuel. After waiting a half hour we found he still had a long way to finish, so we decided to leave and head to our next stop, and get fuel there. I guess their definition of “operational” is different to ours!

Beautiful vessel at Palm Cove

Apart from navigating through a large boat sailing race north of St Augustine, we had an uneventful trip to Palm Coast where we arrived just after 5:00. We went up to the European Village for dinner at Lisbon Nights, which was becoming our tradition for trip “first nights.”

Busy Palm Valley Restaurant
St Augustine racing
St Augustine Lighthouse and Conch House Marina

We got back to Sonas and found that the salon AC had stopped working. The pump would come on for a few seconds, then go off. We found that by turning on the pilothouse unit it would fire up the pump it shared with the salon, and then the salon would be fine – as long as the pilot house AC was running.

Next morning started off foggy. We took on the fuel we wanted and were away by 8:00. It was again an uneventful trip through Daytona, New Smyrna, Titusville and into our anchorage just south of the NASA Causeway Bridge at 5:00. Sian was hesitant to launch the newly galvanized anchor and chain, as she knew it would never look as good again!

Morning fog

While under way we contacted our AC company and he suggested the issue was a pump trigger. he offered to send his guy to us at Palm Coast but we were already underway. We called a company in West Palm and arranged for them to fix the issue when we were down there, and before we crossed to the Bahamas.

The anchorage was peaceful, this was the second time we stayed there and both times were excellent. We upped anchor at 8 and headed south through Cocoa, Melbourne and into Vero. We found that the diesel at Vero Beach City Marina was an exceptionally good price ($2.90) so decided to top up our tanks there rather than Lake Worth. We were really surprised at the number of boats that were sharing mooring balls – sometimes three to a ball. We had thought that Tuesday would not be busy – but Vero was jumping. The dock master was lining people up on the radio and on the fuel dock, with more arriving as we fueled. We went over to the Riverview restaurant for dinner, which offered deck seating and a typical bar menu.

Vero Beach moorings
Sunrise south of Vero Beach

We left Vero at first light. Ran through Fort Pierce, Stuart, St Lucie, Jupiter down into Lake Worth. For choice we would rather leave out of Fort Pierce which works well for the Abacos. But since we were heading to Lucaya and then further south we needed to leave out of West Palm to avoid bumping up against the Gulf Stream flow. Our peeve with running from Fort Pierce south to Lake Worth is the number and different types of slow zones, some of them are pretty long. This adds significant time to the trip.

Ship aground inside Fort Pierce Inlet

We also passed an international sailing regatta at Jensen Beach.

International racing
Jupiter mansion with private beach
Jupiter Lighthouse
Why anyone would want to call this over the VHF?

We had planned on staying at Sailfish Marina, which is right inside the inlet. But there was a sports fishing tournament on and the marina was fully booked. So we arrived at Lake Park marina and tied up in some gusty wind. We used Trip Advisor for restaurant suggestions and walked a mile or so to a grubby looking run down windowless crab shack with a single car outside, which had been listed as a top 4 pick! We kept walking and eventually ended up at the more up-market Pelican Cafe where we had a lovely dinner.

Steve from Gulfstream came and replaced the bad AC pump trigger. He had another in the van so I asked him to leave it with me, and we put it into the spares inventory.

The conditions were not right for a crossing on Thursday, with Friday looking good. So we went to the Boat Owners store and got a new filter for our holding tank vent which Paul installed. We also paid a visit to Publix supermarket for some more fresh produce. That night we went to Frigates for dinner. We still weren’t making much of a dent into our on board supplies!

Old holding tank vent filter

The weather from our sources told us that it would be good for crossing the Gulf Stream on Friday. In fact NOAA used the word “benign!” So at first light Friday we set off. The first challenge we faced was exiting the Lake Worth inlet with a strong outgoing current facing a SE wind. It certainly got lumpy.

Cruise ship coming into West Palm
Lots of AIS signals in Lake Worth

Once outside we put the waypoint in for Grand Bahama to the ESE. The weather forecasts had called for 2-3 foot seas with a 2 foot swell. We don’t know if going nose into them made them feel worse, but we basically “hobby-horsed” across for 7 hours until we got out of the stream. We were also getting a strong ammonia-like smell from the cabin area, which needed to be investigated once tied up.

As we got closer to our destination we realized that we would not make the marina by their closing time so radioed for directions. When we got there a few guys on the dock came and helped tie us up. We were puzzled for a while as to why we didn’t make it in time as we had done this exact same trip two years ago and made it with just under an hour before closing. We then realized that last time we had gone before daylight savings time, this year after. So we were basically an hour later before leaving West Palm due to light, therefore an hour later getting to the marina in Lucaya!

The folks at the Grand Bahama Yacht Club had contacted customs and immigration on our behalf (who also close at 5!) and they gave us permission to come ashore and check in the next morning. So once cleaned up we went up to the pool bar for drinks and dinner.

We had originally planned on staying just one night, but now needed to clear customs and immigration the next morning. This could happen anytime between 8 and 10! We decided not to set out for our next stop in the Berries that late in the day, so stayed an extra night at the marina.

Full freezer
Full chest freezer

Plus we found we had an issue! And in investigating that issue, we found a second! When we woke on Saturday morning we heard both the fresh water pump cycling and the forward bilge pump going off. Paul turned off the fresh water system while he searched for the culprit. He quickly found that water was pouring out of our water heater. At first it seems to be coming from the heat exchanger outlet so he put plenty of silicone on that, left it to harden and turned the water supply on again. The leak had slowed considerably.

Busted water heater

Next he started to investigate the ammonia smell – which got worse when we turned on the AC for the master cabin. So he started with the bilge area. When he lifted the hatch by the VacuFlush system he found that the bellows had failed and sprayed toilet material everywhere creating a right royal mess! He has a photo but not to be shared!! So for the next hour or so he cleaned up that mess and got the bilge as clean as he could. We turned off that toilet and used the guest from then on. We could replace the bellows with one of our spares while we were continuing to cruise.

His reward was going up to the bar and grabbing a few beers while watching Manchester United get knocked out of the FA Cup. Not the best day he has ever had!

So with the water heater somewhat operating and the bilge cleaned up we set off at first light Sunday. About two hours out we checked the water heater again to make sure it was behaving, to find water pouring out again!

The choice was, continue cruising and do without hot water for three months, or turn back to Lucaya and have it replaced. We turned back, and into the same slip at Grand Bahama Yacht Club. Since it was Sunday we knew we could get nothing done today. Instead Paul jumped into the bilge and, after three hours and many scraped knuckles and cursing, got the bellows on the the Vacuflush replaced and the bilge fully cleaned. We now have two working heads again!

First thing on Monday we called the local boat yard. Owner Charlton Knowles came over on his way home from the yard and agreed that the water heater needed to be replaced. He doubted that one could be found on the island so would probably have to have one flown in from the mainland.

So now we sit in Lucaya and await further developments! AND it is raining heavily! Though one benefit is that Sian had time to make some scones – great with butter and jam!

Home made scones

Off Season Projects – 2019

Here are the projects completed before we start the busy 2019 boating season. [To see last year’s projects click here.]

Now we kinda know what they mean when they say “maintained with an open check book!”

Water Maker; we had Hansen Marine Service out of St Augustine install a Blue Water LGD 475, fully automatic water maker that is capable of 20 gallons per hour. We also has a remote screen installed in the Pilot House.

20 GPH water maker
Remote water maker panel

Pilot House wood; when we bought Sonas she had a thin mesh screen for the pilot house windows. Over time this had allowed the sun to badly damage the varnish on the beautiful wood work. We contracted with a painter we had used on our home to re do the wood. He sanded, stained, poly’d, wire-wooled and poly’d again. The result was spectacular.

To see the before, during and after photos click here.

New chart plotters and AIS; the RX on our AIS failed last year, and one of the buttons on the fly bridge chart plotter stopped working. We replaced the AIS with a Vesper XB-8000 with Wi-Wi and dedicated antenna. We also replaced both the fly bridge and pilot house chart plotters with the latest Garmin 8610 models. We had the chart plotter feeding the Green Marine 17” screen in the pilot house which replicates on the fly bridge.

Anchor and Chain; during a January trip we lowered the anchor to find rust dust on the deck. So when we got back to home dock we removed the anchor and the 400 pounds of 3/8 inch chain and took it up to the galvanizers. Easy to write, but quite a job to get it off the boat, up from the dock, and into the SUV! The anchor and chain was hot dipped in zinc and any fused links loosened by hammer. The results were excellent.

Anchor before
Anchor after

Cockpit speakers; the original cockpit speakers had seen better days. The rubber inside was falling apart and the metal face plates were rusty. So we replaced them with a pair of Pyle waterproof speakers.

New Speakers

Radar arch downlights; the original lights had the small two prong halogen bulbs. We find that these can no longer be replaced as the receiving hole in the fittings are worn too large to hold the bulbs. So we replaced both downlights with LEDs. While these are in and working we are not happy with the overall quality of the fittings and will keep looking for better quality and will likely replace these next year.

New laptop and GPS puck; we decided to buy a dedicated lap top for Sonas rather than bringing the older model we had at home. We also bought a GPS puck which allows us to use the laptop as a back-up chart plotter should we have to. However the main use will be in route planning and blogging while on our cruises. We will also link this to our phone’s hot spot for Wi-Fi.

Canvas work; one of our frustrations as we cruise was having to close the pilot house doors because of bugs. Since Sonas usually sits bow-into the wind this significantly impacted the amount of air movement we get through the boat on balmy Bahamian and Floridian days. So we had our canvas guys install roll-up bug screens on the doors. At the same time we had them make a Sunbrella hatch cover for the fore hatch over the guest bed. This has helped darken that cabin.

Tender updates; our Novurania tender’s seat had seen better days. It was worn and discolored. So we had the canvas guys redo the seat. We also had them put a large zipper on top of the dinghy cover, so that we can now attach the davit wire and put the cover on before we lift the dinghy out of the water. Much safer and easier than walking around the edge of the boat deck. Additionally we cleaned off the old painted-on registration numbers, acetone cleaned the whole boat, painted new bases for the numbers, and replaced them.  

Lazarette washing machine; during our Chesapeake trip last year the washing machine starting screeching like a banshee! OK while anchored on our own, but a real annoyance in a busy anchorage. It was either fix it or replace it. We pulled it out and took the back off to look at the belt to find that it was direct drive. Paul did some Google research and found one source of the squeal could be stones in the input filter – the water squeals as the pump pulls it past the partially closed filter. Hoping for the best we took off the hose and pulled out the filter and a number of small calcium stones fell out! We put it all back together and no noise!

Hatch push locks; we have these black push locks on all of our exterior lockers. About a third of them were broken or jammed. We found a source for the exact replacement and now all locks are working!

Lazarette handle; we had a little accident with our lazerette, leaving one of the handles protruding from the side of the hatch and then dropping the hatch. We were able to find the exact replacement.

Portlight chain for master bath; the strut for the master head port light was not connected when we bought Sonas. We contacted the manufacturer to find that these are welded on and the whole window would have to removed and taken to a welder. Rather than risk compromising the window seal we spoke to the supplier who suggested a port light chain. We installed this and it works great!

SMXII AC key pads; we continue to replace these control pads with replacements from Flight Systems. We initially bought two new pads for non-fully working ones. Since then we always like to have a couple in the spares inventory, so bought two more.

PH Door seals; our purchase survey for Sonas indicated that the pilothouse doors did not have seals. We weren’t too concerned about this aa we have a Portuguese Bridge protecting the doors. However we found that the doors did not “dog” fully because of the lack of seals, and could rattle while underway. Also we felt that having gaps around the doors would allow little buggies in. So we installed seals that now have the doors solidly tight.

New pilothouse door seals

Engines and generator service; including exhaust tube replacement; Control Master Inc, completed the annual service on the twin Luggers and Northern Lights generator. There was a crack in the semi-flexible exhaust tube outer coating, so they replaced that for us as well.

ACs serviced; Hansen Marine Services serviced the AC units, and replaced a faulty reversing valve solenoid on the master cabin AC.

Wireless cameras; the camera in the engine room got knocked free and broken. These Swann cameras were on close out so we bought two, replaced the ER camera and put the other one into the spares inventory.

Spare tender prop; While running about the Bahamas we often accidentally bump sand before raising the engine, and sometime hear the potentially fatal “clunk!” So we decided to add a spare prop and hub to the inventory.

EarTec Communications; The older model EarTec headsets were wired to a waist band transmitter. As Sian moved about the boat and docks the transmitter kept falling off, and eventually stopped working. The new model are fully contained in the head set so we upgraded to a pair of the EarTec Ultralites, plus a lanyard for Sian as she moves around.

Manta Hook; When we anchor we always put the snubber on. Previously we simply shackled the snubber to the chain. We decided to buy a Manta Hook, a specialized snubber attachment which is quicker to deploy and remove, critical if you have to raise the anchor in a hurry. This turned out to be much larger than we thought and we need to work on the process of getting it past the anchor roller to see if this is going to work for us.

Projects coming with us to the Bahamas!

We have a few projects that we haven’t been able to get to so we are taking what we need to the Bahamas with us and will complete as we cruise.

Wood rail poly; I lightly sanded and put two coats on the rails last year. So far this year I lightly sanded and touched up any bare spots, but before I could add another full coat or two the pine pollen arrived. Since I don’t want pine pollen embedded in my bright work I will have to do while on our Exumas trip!

Davit maintenance; We have a new cable and hook for the davit. The current one is serviceable but has little loose strands so time to replace. I also notice little metal pieces under the davit motor so I want to wire wool that, coat with Rustoleum, and finish with a coat of enamel.

Guest head; the VacuFlush pump for the guest head is directly under the floorboard in the guest cabin, and can be clearly heard. Not an issue during the day, but can be annoying when flushed at night. So we have bought a Whisper motor upgrade kit for the guest head.

Wood Project

When we first got Sonas in 2016 she had white fine mesh covers for the pilot house windows, which allowed in a significant amount of sun. Over time the sun had bleached the finish on a lot of the interior wood. We knew sooner or later we would have to have the wood refinished. At the start of 2018 we asked our yard for some recommendations for people who could do this. One declined the project over the phone, the other came over and looked at the job. She later called and said that it was not something that she was interested in doing. It seems that people would prefer to work on more straightforward pieces of wood – like rails etc.

After the season’s cruising we finally contacted the guy who did all of the interior and exterior of our home when we bought it in 2014. We were very satisfied with his workmanship so decided to see what he thought of this project. Mike came over and checked out the pilot house. He then told us that he would be honored to be trusted to do this work. He told us that his dad used to build wooden boats and they would both finish them. In fact, that is how he got started on his career!

He laid out his plan. Hand sanding to make sure the sanding went with the grain. Then staining with a matching stain, in our case Pecan. Then a first coat of poly, followed by a fine rub with wire wool to take the first coat into the stain. Finally another coat of poly, and a third where necessary. The floors would be last. He would use a horse hair brush for the stain and apply the poly with rags. The estimated time was three to four weeks, it ended up as around five weeks elapsed. Below are the before, during and after photos.

Plus we had our canvas guy make us a new set of lined Sunbrella covers for the pilot house windows!




Mid Week Run To St Augustine

Calm St Augustine

The joys of being retired! We decided to make an effort to blow away the post-holiday blahs so planned a mid-week run to the nations oldest city Tuesday January 15th through Thursday 17th. We were joined by three other yacht club boats and their crews. Frank and Julie on Escape, Ed and Cindy on Tally II, and Gary and Carol on Dog Days. George and Carolyn drove down and stayed on board Wednesday.

We actually had to leave on Monday afternoon as the tides were wrong for going through the lock and out the channel on Tuesday morning . We just ran a mile south and anchored off the ICW north of the Atlantic Blvd bridge. Next morning, Tuesday we ran south to St Augustine, noticing while passing the Beach Blvd area that some of the liveaboard boats were now sinking. Until about three years ago there were no liveaboards anchored here, now there are ten or so.

Sunken liveaboards
Barge passing in Palm Valley

Two of the faster club boats passed us just north of the Vilano Bridge.

Ed and Cindy on Tally II

St Augustine Municipal Marina was hit pretty hard by the 2017 storms but we found the marina totally up and running, with all docks fully repaired after the storms. They have a large crew working on the Bellingham dock’s piping and woodwork. They have upgraded their WIFI network with ten separate SSID transmitters on the docks and transmitters dedicated to the north mooring field and the south mooring field. The office staff were at great pains to point out this WIFI upgrade, and it worked really well with strong signal and speed.
They have pump out facilities right at the slips, plus a free mobile pump out tender to the moorings on request weather dependent. They also have a free water tender to the mooring fields – all 365 days a year. They also provide the pump out boat to anchored boat for a modest fee.
No pre-payments and cancel at any time! Staff walking the docks 24 hours a day!
A municipal marina doing it right. (By the way they also have this video in French for our northern neighbors!)

Upgrading the docks

We walked the docks and chatted to the other club boats. Then arranged for a pump out as we wanted to start the new year with an empty holding tank, and this should last us now until we head across to the Exumas in March.

On Tuesday evening we hosted everyone on Sonas for a pot luck dinner and drinks. We had brought a folding table in hopes of being able to eat on the dock, but it was too chilly. However there was plenty of room in Sonas’ salon.

Next day, Wednesday we did some small chores and then got together as a group and walked through George street, finally arriving at Prohibition Kitchen for lunch, and were joined by George and Carolyn who were joining us for the night on Sonas. This is a relatively new restaurant with an extensive beer list and simply awesome burgers!

After lunch we all walked over to the Lightner Museum. We had heard that there was a special exhibition of model boats by a St Augustine native, Thomas Rahner. Not a big exhibition, but his detailed work is worth seeing.

That evening we had hoped to eat at Harry’s Seafood Bar and Grill, right on the waterfront. They don’t take reservations, but we thought it would not be busy on a January mid-week. Boy were we wrong! Got there to find an hour and a half wait. We waited for a while but even the bar was full, so we headed across the street to the A1A Ale House and got seated right away. Good food and the waitress was excellent.

The Group at A1A Ale House, left to right: George, Carolyn, Carol, Gary. Sian, Paul, Ed, Cindy, Frank, and Julie

Thursday morning and more clear skies but chilly temperatures. We were the last boat out as we didn’t need to be back at the channel to the lock until late afternoon. As we cruised back north we saw a number of police, rescue, and FWC boats off to one side. As we slowed down to pass them a Coast Guard helicopter came over. They then proceeded to do what looked like interdiction exercises. The helicopter first went after Ed and Cindy in Tally II ahead of us, chased by the small boats. Then it was our turn, the chopper came to us circled, and then I saw the small boats chasing us using the rear camera. No stops, just exercising.

Frank and Julie on Escape going under the Bridge of Lions
Coast Guard Chopper

Got back home and we were tied up by 3:30.

South Carolina, Georgia, and Home!

August 20th. After the run through skinny water yesterday we really wanted to run outside to Georgetown. We looked at the three sources we use for weather and found that it was calling for two to three feet, with swells possible to five. Since it hard to know what impact the swells would have on our ride we decided to head out through the Little River inlet and turn south. We prepared Sonas for sea and headed out behind a shrimper and a number of fishing charters. It was really lumpy through the mouth of the inlet because we had a strong outgoing tide with a southwest wind running across it .

As we were going through that Paul decided to stand up on his seat and have a look at the anchor to make sure it was secured. And it had slipped out a bit (only a foot or two). We clearly hadn’t put the pawl (lock) on it. Sian offered to go onto the bow and fix it but Paul said it was alright , he could use the remote control on the bridge to bring it back in. He pushed the up button and heard more chain running out. Realizing his mistake, being confused by the button indicators, he quick revered and brought the anchor back in. Then he wondered if the anchor had been swinging onto the bow with the wave actions and damaged the gelcoat.

Pulling the lever towards you drops the anchor!

We ran south in really lumpy conditions for a half hour. The GPS indicated that we would be running for another six hours to Georgetown. We decided it was just not worth being uncomfortable for that long and turned around to come back in through the inlet. We then turned south again on the ICW.

We went through Myrtle Beach, which seemed to go on forever, and because it was low tide we again had areas, mainly where there were small inlets into the sea or marshes where there was very skinny water. We had now realized that this was because it had been blowing hard from the south for at least a week and the water had been blown out of the ICW in places. One three mile stretch, ,formally known as Pine Island Cut, but locally known as Rock Pile, is cut out of rocks and the cruising guides quite accurately advise you to keep to the middle, lest you need the services of prop and strut businesses that have grown up nearby!

Entering Rock Pile

Rock Pile

Also on this stretch we saw some interestingly painted houses and, given the steepness of the backyards wondered how on earth they cut them. Then we saw a gentleman cutting his lawn, with a mower on a rope!

Now THAT’S pink!

Mowing the lawn!

We then hit the Waccamaw River and had a very enjoyable ride through the Waccamaw State Park, with its lush trees and vegetation.

Waccamaw River

We also saw an individual with one of those “jet packs” driven by a jet ski!

Jet Pack!

Exiting the park we looked at where we were on the run and decided to tack on another two hours to make our run to Charleston tomorrow a short one. We targeted a couple of anchorages on the Minims River. The one to the West of the ICW had decent reviews on the Waterway Guide so we opted for that. We got to the anchorage and found crab pots all the way up the middle of the anchorage. We picked a spot between two pots and dropped the anchor. We had the wind and tide against each other which pushed Sonas sideways across the anchorage and near the crab pots. After waiting to see if it would sort itself out we finally gave up and went across to the anchorage to the east of the ICW. Here there was little current, wind protection from a stand of trees AND what crab pots there were, were placed along the edge. It turned out to be a very safe and peaceful anchorage.

August 21st

We awoke today to find that our AC was out in the salon. We usually leave it on at night but raise the temperature to 74. The breaker was also off. Paul reset the breaker but there was still no power coming to the control pad. We had a spare pad so he switch them out and still no power. So this issue must be with the AC unit itself. Paul went below and had a quick look to see if he could find a breaker on the AC unit itself with no success.

Our anchorage was at mile marker 415, and Charleston City Marina was at mile marker 469, so we only had 54 statute miles, or 46 nautical miles to go today. Again we were running along at low tide so had to be very mindful of the depth sounder. We had a few spots where we had to pull back on the throttles and zig-zag a bit until we found better depth, but we made it out into Charleston Sound safely, watching the big ships pass by first, and made our way west of Fort Sumpter and into the Ashley River. On our way down we often saw hardhats and other stuff mailed to markers. We had read somewhere that there were in memorial to someone who worked the waterways and had died. [Though also see comment from David below].

Hat and boots

Earlier the Coast Guard had warned us that one of their cutters was doing diving exercises by the Coast Guard station and to pass with caution. The Coast Guard station is right before the marina, so we went to idle as we passed, and saw the divers in the water.

Coast Guard divers

During the morning Paul called the Charleston City Dock and requested an AC tech. We got tied up on the marina’s Mega Dock and checked in. Paul then went into the Charleston City Dock mobile office right on the marina and filled in the order form for the AC Tech. He would be coming to look at the system at 9:00 tomorrow morning.

Burnt AC Controller

We called Stella’s Greek restaurant and tried to book a table for this evening but they were fully booked. At 6:30 we got the marina shuttle into the restaurant and took one of their walk-in tables on the back patio. The food and wine were fine, unfortunately there was no breeze on the patio and the single wall fan wasn’t much help, so we were quite hot out there.

Thankfully when we got back to Sonas there was a cool breeze blowing across the cockpit so we were able to sit outside rather than in the stuffy salon.

August 22nd

We had a walking tour booked for today starting at 10:30, so we would have to be away from the marina at 10. We were hoping that the AC tech would be on time and would be able to diagnose the issue in time for us to go on the tour. By 10 the tech still had not showed so we went to the yard office and left the key for them, and we took the marina shuttle to the tour starting place in Washington Park.

The very interesting walking tour lasted two hours and fifteen minutes and covered the original walled city as well as the “new” area down by the harbor. The lady giving the tour was a Charlestonian and her family had been there for over two hundred years. She was very knowledgeable, and seemed to know everyone we passed!

Midway through the tour the yard called and advised us that the AC unit, the capacitor, the evaparator, the compressor and the mother board, was dead. So I sent an email to my Florida mechanic asking if he could send someone over after we get back next week to put in a new one.

We had lunch at Cru, right on the corner of Motely Street, a very popular Charleston lunch spot. Afterwards we walked over to Harris Teeter for some fresh veggies before calling the marina shuttle and going back to Sonas.

When we got back to Sonas we had a bit of a surprise, the salon AC was on and blasting lots of cool air! Paul sent a text to the yard guy saying “OK, you got me!” He replied with a “???” He wasn’t in his office the rest of the afternoon so finally we connected by phone. He was as surprised as we were that the AC was running. His AC tech had told him that is was dead, that he could get it started but because of the amps it was trying to pull and the bad capacitor, it would not restart. He assumed that the tech got it started one more time and left it for us. We told him that we were going out to dinner but would not leave the air running when we not there just in case, We would turn it off at the breaker when we left and then try and restart it when we got back. He told us to let him know what happened

We turned off the AC and got the shuttle into Slightly North Of Broad (SNOB) for dinner.

A little anecdote on SNOB. Many US cities have a rail line running through them. And the cities are divided into the “other side of the track,” meaning there is a good part of the city and a not so good part. Charleston does not have a rail line through the city, but Broad Street does divide the city. It was the case that South of Broad was the “nice” part and North of Broad not so nice. When this restaurant set up it was Slightly North Of Broad – so called itself that, otherwise known as SNOB, to thumb their nose at the South side of Broad!

We had a wonderful meal with Jenna as our waitress. Afterwards we got an Uber back to Sonas.

While Paul went below to watch the faulty AC unit, Sian switched it on at the breaker. And it started up with no issues! It remained on and delivered cool air for the rest of the evening. Paul sent a text to the boat yard manager asking him for a full write up on the issue and what was done to the unit so that our own mechanics can have a good starting point when we get back. For safety reasons we tuned off the unit before bunking down.

August 23rd

In the hope of running outside we again checked our weather sources. It still did not look good, so we opted to stay in the ICW again. We had an easy run south from Charleston, passing Briney Bug in the anchorage (we first saw her in Deltaville on the Chesapeake), through Beaufort (pronounced BEWfort, whereas the NC version is pronounced BOWfort), past Parris Island, which is the boot camp for the US Marines, and towards Hilton Head Island.

Briney Bug

Along the way we saw dozens of dolphins, sometimes in large pods. At one stage we had three or four jumping on the starboard side of the boat and at the same time three or four jumping on the port side – quite the escort on our way home. We even had a group playing off the back of Sonas after we anchored! We also noticed that the tidal drop up this way is a lot larger than in the Chesapeake and even in Florida.

Low tide

We arrived at the anchorage in Skull Creek, Hilton Head around four. Paul had a quick look on Google Maps to see what was around and we saw that there was a ClubCorp country club about a half mile away! Because our own country club is owned by them we get to use the facilities AND get a free entrée due to our membership level! We were sorely tempted to launch the dinghy and go in, but then decided to just relax and enjoy the anchorage since we just had a couple of evenings in Charleston!

After we started the generator Paul went into the lazarette and watched the salon AC unit again as Sian turned it on – it started without issue and ran fine! What the heck is going on?

August 24th

As Sian was preparing the flybridge to get underway a large shrimper passed us very close! She grabbed a quick photo.

Morning shrimper

After lifting the anchor this morning Sian turned around with a smile on her face – no mud, we were back in the country of soft sand! We headed south again through Hilton Head and down to the Savannah River. As we approached we could see the huge container ships going both ways on the river. As we got to the ICW-Savannah River intersection we had a ship crossing in front of us going downriver. We held Sonas steady inside the ICW as the big ship passed, before running quickly across and back into the ICW.

Waiting our turn!

Shrimper in Wahoo River Anchorage

We ran through Wilmington Island, Skidaway Island, Ossabaw Island, and then across St Catherine Sound, where the wind was howling and the chop pretty substantial.

Running through St Catherine’s Sound:

After transiting St Catherine Island we were passed by a Tow Boat US boat, who later hailed us on 16 asking for a slow pass around the next corner. When we got there we saw them successfully dragging a sailboat off a shoal. We turned for our anchorage for the night, to see a shrimper had also tucked himself in there waiting the winds to die. We passed them and went a further half mile up the Wahoo River to shelter behind a stand of trees.

Leaving our well protected anchorage in Wahoo River

One thing worth mentioning is that we passed quite a number of “Slow, No Wake” signs put up by residents or marinas, not the Coast Guard (CG signs have the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) number at the bottom). What was different about these signs was that they referenced the state code about obeying all CG posted signs while not official signs themselves – a cute way of making boaters think that they were official signs! Most of them were so old that they were illegible anyway.

Well worn signs

We haven’t had rain for months and Sonas was getting a bit “dusty,” so Paul broke out the boat bucket and hauled in water to swab the decks. Not the perfect job, more of a “lick and a promise” as we say in Ireland!

We are anchored at Mile Marker 630, on the Wahoo River, tomorrow’s stop will be at the anchorage of Cumberland Island, Mile Marker 711. Then by Sunday lunchtime we will complete our journey at home, Mile Marker 742!

August 25th

We were off again shorthly after 7:00. Headed south across Sapelo Sound, down the Mud River and across Doboys Sound, past Wolf Island and then across Altamaha Sound. This took us to the inside run to the West of St Simons Island, across St Simons Sound, and down through the very skinny water of Jekyll Island. After Jekyll we had to head out into the Atlantic for a bit to pass the shoaling in St Andrew Sound, which took us to Cumberland Island. Even from the ICW side you can see the beauty of this island. It is also a surprisingly long island, taking over 20 miles to pass! We saw a large buoy washed up on the island, probably from a recent hurricane. We also got to watch some of the wild horses grazing.

Don’t think we will be ’rounding this marker!

Cumberland wild horses

As we came near the south end of the island we came to a really shallow area where we intersect with the Brickhill River. The markers were really confusing and we slowed to go through. Just as well as we softly bumped the sand. We reversed off and got around the corner. We passed the submarine base at Kings Bay and approached our planed anchorage off Cumberland Island.

It was only three o’clock and we were about three and a half hours from home. It had been an easy enough run today so we decided to carry on. As we crossed Cumberland Sound towards Fernandina we decided to see if they had a tie-up for us where we could go in for dinner and maybe stay there for the night. The city marina there was badly damaged by Hurricane Matthew but we had heard that they had some spaces now open. When we hailed them they informed us that they only had four spaces and only for boats 45 feet and under. So we continued on.

Fernandina City Marina

Boat washed onto shore at Fernandina

The shrimp are running!

We approached the home port lock at Queen’s Harbour at 7:15 and hailed for a lock in., to be told that there was another boat in the lock and we would have to wait. A two thousand mile round trip, and we had to wait another 20 minutes!!

But we were home!

Safely tucked up at home

Norfolk, And Some Challenging Runs On The ICW South

August 13th

Well today we left the Chesapeake. Heading South West from Cape Charles we went through the fifteen large cargo ships anchored waiting their turn for Baltimore or Norfolk. As we neared the channel into Hampton Roads we saw a military helicopter off towards the mouth of the Chesapeake lower something into the water and then drag it through the water at speed. This went on for about an hour before the helicopter went off to the naval base where it seemed to drop whatever it was towing. We have no idea what it was doing.

Helicopter lowering something into the water…

… dragging it through the water…

…taking it back ashore.

As we crossed into Hampton Roads we stayed to the north of the channel as warship 55 was exiting. After she passed us we crossed the channel and made our way past the Naval Station and down to Norfolk. We backed into our slip at the Waterfront Marina, right downtown.

Warship 55

The last time we were in Norfolk we had tried to get a boat tour of the shipyards and the naval station, but since it was the July Fourth week everything was booked up. So yesterday Paul went on-line and booked us onto the 5:30 tour. Since we were all tied up by one o’clock we went over to the ticket booth and changed our tickets to the two o’clock sailing.

The tour boat we would be taking ourselves later!

As we waited we visited the Armed Forces Memorial. This very well done memorial consisted of 20 bronze cast letters from service people who fought and died in all the major wars, the Revolutionary through the Gulf War. They were replicated on bronze and placed on the ground as if windblown.

Armed Forces Memorial

Some of the letters:

We boarded the Victory Rover which took us on a narrated tour of the shipyards and navy base. Each of the ship names and types were indicated along with the cost to build each. We were surprised to learn that most of the non-fighting ships, while owned by the navy, were managed and manned by civilian companies.

This evening we walked over to the Waterside complex and had Cioppino seafood dinners at Stripers.

August 14th

Today was one of the few days where we were staying in the same location for a couple of days. So we decided to get in some exercise. We put on our walking shoes and walked the Norfolk waterfront and the Freemason district for an hour. We had lunch on board and then headed over to Nautilus.

The Nautilus is part museum, part hands on for young adults and also home of the battleship Wisconsin. The museum was very well done, starting with the history and data on the Port of Virginia and the Norfolk Naval Base. It then covered ships communications and weaponry, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Agency (NOAA), sealife in a small aquarium, plus 3D movies titled Blue Sea and Aircraft Carrier. We then toured the upper decks and deck two of the huge Wisconsin.

Crew sleeping quarters.

The museum also had a special exhibit underway called Shipwreck, with 500 artifacts recovered from shipwrecks, though we chose not to visit this.

Overall a very great value at only $16 – less for us seniors!

We got back to Sonas to tidy ourselves up and then walked the half mile to Freemason Abbey, a restaurant Sian picked up from TripAdvisor. This restaurant is in a refurbished church, with the original interior roofing and some of the original stain glass windows. The food and wine were excellent and economical. Our server Jordan was delightful. A very good meal indeed.

August 15th

Now it was time to head for home. We got out the charts and cruising guides and laid out our plan for the run inside to Beaufort and then, hopefully, outside to Jacksonville. We had two things we wanted to do along the way. Stop in Wrightsville in enough time to have dinner with cruising buddies John and Suzie Mc Carley, and also stop in Charleston for two nights giving us an evening and full day to enjoy that beautiful city.

Today we aimed to do 61 miles, timing the lock and bridge at Great Bridge, and passing Coinjock to anchor in the North River. We made the Great Bridge Lock at 8:30 which was perfect timing to get through the lock and straight onto the nearby Great Bridge bridge for their 9:00am opening. Just like clockwork.

The next challenge was the Centerville Bridge. It opened on the hour and half hour. Since it was just 3.2 miles away and we had 25 minutes to make it we pulled back on the throttles with the aim of getting there right at the 9:30 opening.

Then a power catamaran popped out of a marina and fell in behind us. As we got to within a mile of the bridge I switched to the bridge channel 13 and advised the bridge tender that we were approaching southbound and would be standing by on channel 13 for their 9:30 opening. He acknowledged.

A minute or two later it got a bit weird!

Catamaran on 13: “Bridge we are the catamaran behind Sonas wanting to pass them to get to your bridge, but we can’t raise Sonas on channel 16, they must not have their radio on.”

Bridge on 13: “Just pass them then.”

Me on 13: “This is Sonas, we had already contacted the bridge and were monitoring the bridge channel 13.”

Catamaran: “Ok, we will come behind you.”

Catamaran a minute later: “Actually Sonas can we pass you on your starboard side?”

Me: “Roger I will move to port to give you room.”

Catamaran: “No sorry, we want to pass you on your port side.”

Me: “Roger I will move to starboard to give you room.”

The catamaran then passes us towards the bridge. We continue at our decreased speed timing the bridge opening.

Catamaran to bridge: “Bridge we are approaching, do we have to wait for Sonas before you will open the bridge?”

Bridge: “I will be opening the bridge in a few minutes.”

Catamaran slows to wait for the 9:30 opening, which by the time the tender drops the road barriers and open the span, is more like 9:33.  By which time we go through the bridge right behind the catamaran. I smile broadly at the bridge tender and he smiles back.

And on we went! Some of us smelling the roses, some of us burning the diesel!

We got to the anchorage at the North River at two o’clock so decided to keep on going as the weather was perfect for crossing the Albemarle. We crossed the sound in glassy water and anchored just the other side at mile marker 81 on the Little Alligator River along with three other boats.

Crossing the Albemarle Sound

August 16th

Under way at 7:00. We decided to do another 80 miles today, which would get us to anchorage inside Bear Creek just north of the Neuse River. Our plan was to give us a half day run to Cape Fear the next day where we would anchor and have a relaxing beach day.

Our first challenge of the day was getting through the Alligator River Highway Bridge. This is a swing bridge with only a 14 foot clearance when closed. We radioed the bridge tender as we approached. He told us to come on down and he would open it. As we approached he asked us to stand by and they only had one lane of traffic open, and there were men at each end of the bridge releasing traffic in alternative directions. We waited until the traffic flowing eastbound passed by. Then we waited until traffic flowing west bound passed by, then the bridge opened and we were told to continue. Thankfully this was to be the last bridge opening request today and, if we can run outside from Beaufort, the last one of the trip!

We continued south through the Alligator River and arrived at the Alligator and Pungo Canal. This canal is 21 miles long and is probably the most boring part of our trip (as it was on the way up!). We got through the canal without incident, seeing a young deer along the way, transited the Pungo River and across the Pamlico. We arrived at our anchorage at mile marker 161 around 4. We managed to get the anchor down and get below before a lighting storm hit, which passed without causing any issues. It was blowing quite strongly so we laid out one hundred feet of chain just to be on the safe side.

A&P Canal

Mineral rich water

A&P Deer

Jacksonville is at ICW mile marker 734 – so only another 573 miles to go!!

August 17th

Today we  aimed to get to the Beaufort Inlet, nip out there and across to the Cape Look Out Bight. Inside the bight there is a great anchorage, well protected from wind from any direction, with wonderful sandy beaches. We could swim and walk the beaches. Then the next day we can pop out from the Bight and head south west on the outside for our next anchorage at Wrightsville Beach.

Well, it didn’t take long for that plan to unravel. By the time we have crossed the Neuse Rived and north of Morehead City the wind was blowing a gale. Paul checked the weather and found that North Carolina was sitting right between a high pressure  a low pressure trough, and would likely be so for most of the coming week! We checked the sea conditions and found that the waves were 3-4 feet, building to 4-5 feet tomorrow running from the south west!  The boat would be fine, but who wants to spend seven or eight hours pounding straight into five foot waves?

So we decided to stay inside. We grabbed the charts and cruising guide and targeted Swansboro as a good stop for today. We got to Morehead City, turned into the AICW south and continued to Swansboro buffeted by 20 knot winds. We called the town docks and reserved their T-Head, which was open.

We urned into the creek leading into town, and saw that there were two center consoles taking up the T-Head. We held off the T-Head in a strong current (and still strong wind) until a guy sitting in his Ranger Tug saw us. He went off and found the boat owners and got them to quickly move their boats. He then came down to the dock and helped us tie up. When we were all secure Paul went over with a six pack and our thanks. Dave introduced himself and they chatted about the area for a while.

The restaurant at Swansboro Town Dock

We then went for a walk around the quaint waterfront area of Swansboro. There are a number of unique stores, a candy store, and a café that sells beer and wine making products, craft beers and wine. They also do evening wine tastings.

After cleaning up we left Sonas to go eat at The Ice House. On our way up the dock Dave called us over and introduced us to Michael, who runs a sailboat for hire out of the dock. He does sailing education cruises and sunset cruises.

After dinner we sat on the back cockpit with a glass of wine, later joined by Michael and his “crew” Shannon.

August 18th

This morning we had to pour over the charts and cruising guide and work out our plan for getting from Swansboro to Wrightsville Beach, out next stop. While it was only 54 miles in distance it was complicated by the fact that there were four low bridges that we had to go through that were restricted to either half hourly opening or hourly openings. We had to time our departure from the marina to meet the first bridge and then the run between each bridge. Another potential complication was that Marine camp Lejeune was also on our route and they could have live fire exercises that would close the ICW to traffic.

Six miles after leaving Swansboro we saw the control tower for Camp Lejeune, and the warning signs. The good news was that there were no exercises planned for today. As we passed through the camp we saw additional warning signs and the results of their previous live fire practices!

Camp Lejeune Watch Tower

Then we started our timed runs through the bridges!

  • The Onslow Beach Bridge 11 miles away (0nly 12 feet clearance when closed) opened every half hour. So we got under way at 8:15 to make the 9:30 opening. Which we did without issues.
  • Then it was the Surf City Highway Bridge, 20 miles away (12 feet clearance) which only opened on the hour. We gave ourselves a relaxing two and a half hours to get there, again done without issue for the 12:00 opening.
  • Now the Figure Eight Island Bridge, 17.5 miles away (20 feet clearance) which opened every half hour. We needed to get there on the half hour because the bridge after that was  4.8 miles away and only opened on the hour, and we only needed a half hour to do that final run. So we gave ourselves two and a half hours to make the Figure Eight and made it with plenty to spare for the 2:30 opening.
  • Then we had a problem. We hadn’t factored in the fact that it would take five minutes or more for the bridge to open and for us to get through. Meaning we didn’t have a full half hour to do the nearly five miles to the next bridge! AND we got hit with a bit of a head current! We usually cruise at 8 knots (9.2statute miles). If we missed the opening we would have to hang around another hour for the next opening! So we cranked up the RPMs and prayed! At 2:55, when we were about a mile and a half from the bridge Paul called the bridge tender and told him we were a mile out and standing by for the opening. He acknowledged. Four minutes later he called us back and asked us if we would make it as he could not wait! We cranked some more (and maybe went a wee bit too fast through a congested area!). The tender then raised the bridge and called us to tell us that there was a boat coming the other way so by the time he got through we would be fine! In fact he did keep the bridge open for a couple of extra minutes for us to get through, especially since there were a number of smaller boats ahead of us that we had to slow down for! We radioed and thanked him profusely!

On the way through all this we ran aground at the junction of the New River and ICW. This is a three way junction. The inlet coming in, the ICW crossing it, and the river continuing to Jacksonville, North Carolina. There are red buoys going in all directions. The Coast Guard have placed two red can buoys there so that they can move them around with the shoaling. We bumped the nose of our keel aground when our depth sounder was showing eight feet (the transducer is on the middle of the boat) so we were able to back off easily, then in the supposed middle of the ICW channel between the two can buoys we passed one point with only one foot under the keel. With the help of a couple of folks fishing and a passing jet skier we were able to get past the confusion and on our way.

Wrightsville Bridge and big yachts

After tying up at the marina we contacted John and Suzie McCarley and told them we had arrived. We arranged to meet for dinner at six and had a nice meal at Bluewater Grill.

One thing we discussed at the end of this day is that we also have tricky areas in the ICW where we live but we move around with confidence because we know the waters and have local knowledge. We watched today as dozens of other boaters flew around us as we worked our way around some very skinny water, and it certainly has brought home to use the immense value of local knowledge.

August 19th

We decided to stay inside again today as it was still blowing hard. We set off from Wrightsville Beach, southbound on the ICW. Our aim today was to get to the Anchorage on the Little River, just inside the inlet and below Calabash.

The trip along the ICW was uneventful except for the fact that we were running during low tide AND the tide times are later going south so we were following the lowest water as we went along! This really didn’t give us much of an issue except at the intersection of inlets. Every time we got to one of these there was shoaling and we had to go slow and search for the deepest water. It got to be very tedious.

At one inlet intersection we were behind a small trawler who hailed us as we came to the inlet, and asked to switch to a working channel.

“Sonas, this is XYZ ahead of you. If you like we can give you water readings as we go through here?”

Of course we said yes! Then all of a sudden:

“Sonas we are seeing three and a half foot!!!” Then they swerved to starboard.

“Sorry about that Sonas, we mistook the inlet markers as the ICW markers and were cutting the corner. We are fine now!”

Looking at the markers we can certainly understand how they made that mistake and, as Sian said “we’re glad you are leading the way!”

We ended up passing through in 12 feet of water! Soon after passing the inlet intersection we  overtook the small trawler.

The rest of the day was uneventful, we saw some sky divers parachuting down to a field beside the ICW, and  saw dozens  of “Slow, no wake” signs put up on private docks with the requisite red circles, and not one of them legal! We reached the anchorage for an early stop at 2:00. We are checking the weather for tomorrow and it looks like we can finally run outside to Georgetown Inlet to anchor and then afterwards to Charleston.

Sky divers

No wake zone sign


St Michaels, Baltimore, And The Turn For Home

Sonas downtown Baltimore

August 6th

Before we cast off this morning John and Paul walked over to J M Clayton Company just by the boat. This seafood processing company claims that it is the “World’s Oldest Crab Company” and has been in business through five generations.  They bought three pounds of fresh crab meat, one of which went into the freezer as a gift for some friends back home.

Three pounds of crab meat!

We cast off and proceeded back out through the Choptank and into the Bay. We rounded Tilghman Island and into Eastern Bay, and ran the two hours into St Michaels. As we approached our lunch anchorage a sail boat with green canvas passed us going in the opposite direction. Suddenly Paul shouted “hey, look at the name!” And there it was, in Irish script on the side of the boat –Sonas! Paul grabbed the radio: “Sonas, Sonas, Sonas, this is Sonas.” No response. He tried a few times more with no response. So sadly we drifted apart, none the wiser of their story! So if there is anyone in Annapolis who knows them, point them here!

Sailing vessel Sonas!

We stopped just short of the town and dropped the anchor for lunch and a swim. Our plan was to go inside to the anchorage in the town.  But as we approached we found three other boats already there in  tight anchorage, so went back out to the open anchorage just outside of town.

We launched he dinghy and went in for a walk through the town. It is quite a lively town with lots of art galleries and stores. We bought a souvenir Christmas Tree ornament and had some ice cream to help with the day’s heat – which was a “feels like” 97 degrees! We also found the small grocery store and bought a fresh lettuce!

However a nice cooler breeze came through the anchorage in the evening so we grilled the dinner and ate on the fly bridge watching the sail boats taking sunset cruises on the Miles River.

Sunset over St Michaels

Later that evening we were surrounded by electrical storms that passed around us but did present us with some magnificent dark skies and forked lightning!

August 7th

We woke this morning to a boat covered in small flies! So much so that we could not use the back door but had to go out and in the side pilothouse door. The number of flies got progressively worse as the day went on, and the number of spider webs appearing to snag them increased as well! We also noticed little green spots appearing on the fiberglass. We will be tying up alongside tomorrow night in Rock Hall so will get to work with the hose and soapy water.

Attack of the flies!

After a lazy morning swimming and reading in the sun we went ashore. We had lunch at the Carpenter Street Saloon before walking down to the St Michaels winery for some afternoon wine tasting. We found the wines there to be very acidic so did not buy any bottles. We considered paying a visit to the Maritime Museum but were driven back to the boat by the heat.

Tasting the wine – no sips here, we went with full glasses!

Returning to Sonas we all had a nap to allow the wine to wear off!! Then we made good use of the crab that we bought making crab spaghetti with lemon gremolata.

August 8th

Paul was interested in taking a direct route to Rock Hall via the Kent Narrows. Last night he had used both the charts and the GPS to look at the depth through the channel, and it looked pretty shallow. He went on to the Trawler Forum and asked for local knowledge and received a good deal of input – in summary, due to the skinny water through the Narrows, it suggested taking the time to go back out through the East Bay and take the long way around. Which is what we did.

We went North past the large ships waiting their turn for Baltimore, then raced a tug and barge to the Chesapeake Bay bridge (until Sian told Paul to slow down and let the tug win!).

Racing the tug and barge!

Chesapeake Bay Bridge

Immediately past the bridge we made the turn to the North East and the channel into Rock Hall. First we went past the entrance to Rock Hall and entered Swan Creek to anchor for lunch and a cooling swim. As we turned the corner into the creek we were surprised by the number of large marinas back in there. After lunch we backtracked and entered Rock Hall harbor. There are two way to get across the harbor. Around the well-marked edge of the harbor, or straight across. Paul had received some local knowledge from the Trawler Forum advising us to go around the edge as the cut across only had a starting and ending markers and was very shallow out of the channel. We passed the blow up Waterman at the harbor entrance and got to our T-Head dock at the Waterman’s Crab House, and found that we had no power pedestal! We walked over to the restaurant and found the general manager, Ken, busy getting bushels of crabs ready for the evening dinner crowd. He pointed us to the only slip that had a 50 amp power. So we backed Sonas down to slip number 5 and we tied up stern onto the bar and restaurant – about five steps away!

Waterman guarding the entrance

Can we get any closer to the restaurant!

John and Anne Marie went for a walk into town but found most placed closed by five. They had an ice cream as a reward!

We had originally planned to grill some steaks on the boat deck, but as the breeze was blowing towards the restaurant we thought it a bit cheeky having the smell of privately grilling steaks waft over the guests there! So we decided on dinner at the restaurant where we had the crab pots; crabs, mussels, clams, potato, and sweet corn, with the requisite brown paper table cloths. Our waitress Tiffany showed us how to professionally clean the crabs, and Ken, the general manager, came and sat with us for a chat. Overall one of the great evenings of our trip.

Yummy yummy!

Not much left!